New drive belt installation

CCF · 12-01-2008, 09:19 AM

So I've got a shredded drive belt and need to change it. Kind of surprised it's got shreds hanging off since I've only got 9.3 hours. I did accidentally smoke the belt while loading it onto my trailer because my ramps are too steep and the bottom caught on the back edge of the trailer. My deflection seems to measure out fine right at about 1 1/8". So I'm planning to pickup and new belt and installing it, but I read somewhere that you need to remove the clutch to swap out a belt? I don't have a clutch puller tool. It seems to me that I could just remove the rear pulley to gain the clearance needed to install a new belt. Is this true?

Hunterworks · 12-01-2008, 12:26 PM

Won't work, you will need the puller.

Watch our video on our site on how to do it.

CCF · 12-01-2008, 05:02 PM

Thanks for the info Todd. I may just order what I'll need from you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hunterworks

Won't work, you will need the puller.

Watch our video on our site on how to do it.

Magellan · 12-01-2008, 05:17 PM

I have also made Dalton Clutch Install video that shows what you have to do. Todd's is a great video and I have watched it. I shot these just to share and show how it looks from my perspective and as you know there are MANY ways to do everything, that is what keeps it interesting.

The first one shows teardown of the machine and removal of the CVT cover.

YouTube - Part 1 - Kawasaki Teryx - Dalton Industries Clutch Kit Install

And this one showing taking off the driven and drive pulleys. It is really pretty easy to do.

YouTube - Part 2 - Kawasaki Teryx - Dalton Industries Clutch Kit Install

Hunterworks · 12-01-2008, 05:26 PM

Watch both and learn two ways. At least you will know how to do it for sure.

Four Stroke Tech had a good idea to measure belt deflection but your cover would have to be off. When the top of the belt is even with the top of the secondary sheave it is right.

Todd

chevell27 · 12-02-2008, 08:24 AM

isnt your teryx still under warranty my buddy shredded his belt this weekend and got it replaced under warranty

Magellan · 12-02-2008, 09:18 AM

7/8" is more like what will make your belt last. 1 and 1/8 is to loose IMHO. If I stick to around 7/8 I feel it performs the best and lasts the longest.

I went ahead and got the tools so I can maintain my machine myself. It costs in gas and time way more than it is worth to take it to the dealer every time I need my belt adjusted. I can tear down the machine, adjust or replace the belt and put it all back together in less than 2 hours and I don't rush. It is roughly a 45 minute drive each way to my dealer and it costs 85 an hour there. I am staying way ahead of the game just doing it myself.

redle · 12-04-2008, 03:28 PM

my dealer installs the belt without pulling any sheaves. just rolls it on and off

Hunterworks · 12-04-2008, 05:17 PM

He is also stretching it for you so you will have to prematurely have it adjusted. Much easier to use the tool in my opinion.

ram04 · 12-04-2008, 05:46 PM

Not trying to bad mouth your dealer, but any mechanic that uses that method, I would'nt want working on my stuff. Get the tools, you'll be better off doing it yourself.