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| Kawasaki Teryx General Discussions General discussions pertaining to the Kawasaki Teryx.
Maintenance, cleaning, etc. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Western, NC
Posts: 367
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I have tried and still own the ebay Billet one (that come with spark arrestor screen) and the stainless "power tip" and the sputtering sound is still there in the drivers seat with both of them. The power tip is a good bit louder than the billet tip and sounds a lot lower and throatier and kinda masks the sputtering a little more than the billet.
I preferred the billet and I had to have a spark arrestor to ride in the local national forest land. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Trinity, TX
Posts: 115
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I have the Dynateck cdi, and HWTodd carb kit with larger jets. I get the sputter from just about idle to 12-13 mph....right in that 'puttin' speed, which I do a lot of. I do have a slight miss/flat spot where the carb transition from the fuel mixture circuit to the needle, but that’s another issue I’m working on, and I don’t think it’s part of this problem. Especially since others notice it as well. The sputter is inherent in the exhaust somehow. If you aren’t riding in it….you don’t really notice it.
Do we have other Teryx owners who do NOT have the sputter. If so then it might be an exhaust gasket/connection something like that. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Western, NC
Posts: 367
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 129
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Thats kinda odd, Mine does'nt do this. The only thing that I have done is removed the spark arrester screen and cut about a inch and a half off the tail pipe. I'm waiting to see what everybody else is doing, and then see what works best and go that route.
If I feel the need to go fast I just get the prairie out, I've done everything to it, but a bore kit, trying to make sure I don't loose any reliability. One of the best things I did to it was have the clutch machined and lightened, really made a difference, I've played with all the different springs and finally settled on a pink drive and a stock brute 750 driven. I'm interested in the dalton kit, just waiting for some reviews. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 142
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I also have the same sputtering type of sound, I have DT CDI -Non program, and the hunter carb and the powertip exhaust. I seem to notice it most at around a 20-30 mph. I was thinking that it was a fuel/air problem, not only can I hear it, but I can feel it, that's what made me think it was an fuel ratio problem, I adjusted and changed jetting several times and still can't get it resolved.
Todd is going to tell us if we would buy the air/fuel gauge we would resolve it ( ) I can hear it now.......maybe someone should rent their gauge out!!! ![]() |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 129
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Honestly, The Teryx has enough power for most of us, but like most you always want just alittle more. A few years ago I would have been throwing money at mine to see what works and what won't, but a kid in college and another a few years out, I'm apt to let someone else do the leg work. Thats why I like this site, you have the guys that will spend whatever it takes to get the most out of Teryx, hit or miss, so the rest of us can learn from what they do. When I did my prairie I bought this and that to see what worked, and I ended up with alot of parts that did'nt work.
So to all you guys out there doing the research, thanks, it is appreciated by the guys who don't have the time or money. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Western, NC
Posts: 367
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Quote:
I do not have the sputter at speed at all like you are describing. Kinda good news actually, makes this look more like a tuning issue as the most likely culprit! ![]() Problem with rental or loaning is that on the Teryx, you need two bungs to weld into your exhaust headers 16 to 18 inches from the exhaust port I think it was for the sensor. There is a video of Todd doing a Rhino on the Hunterworks site. Once I watched that, I figured why not give it a try. I think I will like it, can't wait to perfect and learn if I was right or wrong on my Vinson as well, and only one bung needed on it.(Thumper) ![]() |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Trinity, TX
Posts: 115
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Hey Ram04. Did it do it before you removed the spark arrester? And what do you mean about cutting 1 1/2 inch of the tail pipe?? There really isn't a tailpipe. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 142
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Yes, I agree about the loaning or renting of the gauge (actually I was being a smart alec - budweiser seems to bring that out) I will probably buy the gauge also, I will be very interested in how it works for you Mag, in fact I will wait until I hear how it works from you. Hunterworks IMO seems to be a very good price and not only that - he offers to give you FREE technical support if you buy from him, and that advice and help is not cheap.
Speaking of maybe a timing issue - is another topic, I don't believe there is a "proper" way to advance or retard timing when it is electronic ignition - is that correct? |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 129
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I did'nt notice mine making any kind of sputter, all I did was remove the exaust tip and cut the spark arrester off and shorten the tip a inch or so, on the Prairies we would take the exaust pipe off and cut the end off the cannister, then drill six to eight 1/2 inch holes thru the plates in it, then weld the end back on. On the prairies this helped the performance quite a bit, actually, when I put my HMF pipe on , It did'nt seem to be any better than the stock one drilled. I have thought of doing this with the Teryx, but have'nt had time yet.
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