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Kawasaki Teryx General Discussions General discussions pertaining to the Kawasaki Teryx.
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:18 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I would like to say the staff at Muzzy's has been very responsive in my opinion to issues that have come up with the installation, heat, etc.
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Old 08-19-2008, 10:06 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybo700R View Post
yeah that seems very rich, I switched to 140/142 last night but did not get to run it.. It was only running on 1 cylinder so I had to troubleshoot that (front carb came out of the boot...) so I didn't get it all back together to run it last night... Tonight though I will.. I want to beat the heat and head for hate coast Saturday and dune it with the carb kit and muzzy's on it. woohoo!
How did it go with the 140/142 jets Jaybo? I installed the same and rode 68 miles over the weekend, but it still seems rich and I am still working on the screws to get really slow and low rpm crawling to smooth out. I think I am going to rejet again and get closer to the 13X range Muzzy's recommends.

Last edited by Magellan; 08-19-2008 at 06:18 PM..
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Old 08-20-2008, 05:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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OK went to I-81 Motorsports Park and rode about 16 miles today testing 134/138 and it is not that much different. Seemed to like one of my TPI valves closed and one open best. This is getting conplicated. Stripped a carb screw and had to drill off the head, but luckily have plenty of metric screws around so swapped out for allen head. Will do the rest next time.

Where is the closest dyno to Western, NC so I can just go do it right at one time and get-r-done?

**Edit - Correction, the top end speed is a little faster and I get there a little quicker so I am getting somewhere. Still would love to find a dyno close by.

Last edited by Magellan; 08-21-2008 at 06:30 AM..
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Magellan,

A air fuel ratio gauge is how we find what jet. For the Teryx you buy a extra weld in bung so you have one for each pipe. Without knowing the air/fuel ratio it is hard to jet properly.

No dyno needed.

Of course we sell s a good one but I am not telling you this to push ours on you. If you don't buy one from us make sure it is a heated wideband O2 sensor.

By the way if you close one TPI valve and it works better that means to me that you need a bigger jet so you can open the second one on up. But again the gauge would tell the tell and in short order.

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Old 08-21-2008, 08:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Todd. I have bought everything else from you so I would just go ahead and get the one you sell. Just watched your install/use video of the fuel/air ratio meter and that looks like the easiest way to get it right. I will call and order one today. Thank you.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:18 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Boy this is like shooting fish in a barrel!! Rooked another one into buy the gauge!!


Seriously, it is the best way and you will wonder how you did without it, I promise that.

Thanks,
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:24 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Sorry for the long delay, Life got busy for a while and I had to neglect the board for a bit. Anyway, I am waiting to try it out, Even with the glue the exhaust gasket slipped and I had an exhaust leak - With all the sound/heat insulation I didn't hear it. Anyway, I am now waiting for the new gasket to come in as I crushed the old one.. Hopefully it will be in next week as promised.

Hopefully Muzzy will improve the gasket situation too, their system seems to be the best out there, but for the price you would think they would have a better flange that makes it simple to be positive the gasket stays in place and seats to the head properly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Magellan View Post
How did it go with the 140/142 jets Jaybo? I installed the same and rode 68 miles over the weekend, but it still seems rich and I am still working on the screws to get really slow and low rpm crawling to smooth out. I think I am going to rejet again and get closer to the 13X range Muzzy's recommends.
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:23 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybo700R View Post
Sorry for the long delay, Life got busy for a while and I had to neglect the board for a bit. Anyway, I am waiting to try it out, Even with the glue the exhaust gasket slipped and I had an exhaust leak - With all the sound/heat insulation I didn't hear it. Anyway, I am now waiting for the new gasket to come in as I crushed the old one.. Hopefully it will be in next week as promised.

Hopefully Muzzy will improve the gasket situation too, their system seems to be the best out there, but for the price you would think they would have a better flange that makes it simple to be positive the gasket stays in place and seats to the head properly.

I agree with you on the header gaskets. Believe it or not installing the rear was the hardest and most frustrating thing I have ever done on my Teryx. I have installed HW kit complete with airbox mods, UNI filter, Power Steering, rejetted multiple times and the Muzzy install was by far the hardest. The problem is that grease will not do the trick when you are manipulating the rear header and pipes. You cannot tighten anything until you get it all lined up and by the time you do, the gasket is sitting on the engine case and no longer anywhere near the exhaust opening or flange. I went and bought 4 more new kawa 11009-1894 gaskets today since I had to take the rear header loose to get the system off to get the bung welded on. I am really dreading putting it back on... surely 4 tries I can get one on well enough. Also, my kawa plastic Alternator Cover is melted through I discovered today in spite of the Muzzy's heat shield. Had to order another, I went ahead and got 2 just in case 13.90 each. Gotta now figure out how to keep the next one from melting since the Muzzy heat shield on pipe 2 did not work for me and I paid very careful attention to the clearance between the pipe and plastic cover and routed the pipe as far away as I could get it. Also, the front header pipe hits the metal heat shield up front that is factory Kawasaki. Not sure how to cure that either, I can't see any way to make it not hit it unless I do some bending on the heat shield itself. The Muzzy front cylinder header is fixed length between the flange and the bend. How do I change that to make it not hit the factory heat shield... Impossible, yes, so heat shield has to be modded I guess, I definitely cannot shorten the length between the flange and bend. THe header wrap is eaten through and there is a big burn mark on the insulation on the back of the heat shield from contact. Also the add-on Muzzy's heat shield that attaches to the left rear motor mount with the glued on insulation - the insulation is falling off, the glue did not hold. Photo tomorrow.

Overall, after discovering the fit and finish and melting, etc with the Muzzy's install after the time it took to put it on, I am a good bit frustrated. Way to hard to make the system work IMHO for the price. Fitting a few pipes together should not be rocket science, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to avoid hitting the front heat shield that is fixed to the frame and also routing the pipes away from my alternator cover enough to keep the plastic from melting. I spent about 6+ hours installing this system and I had the Teryx winched up into a tree so I had very clear access to the bottom and top of the machine and I worked long and carefully on the pipe routing to make it the best I could get it. I will decide over the long weekend if I am going back to the stock or another manufacturer or what.

I know this sounds really negative and I am definitely frustrated and have never had so many issues with a single install. Maybe it is just my lack of exhaust system experience, but I put a Banks system on my last truck and a system on my Vinson.. I think I am going to mix a drink and watch some TV for a while.

I will take photos to document what I am saying, I don't have time tonight, they will be posted tomorrow I promise. I know this is a negative post from me and not the norm but this system is in my humble opinion not ready for prime time . It just does not fit that well and the add-on Muzzy's heat shields do not work in my case, neither one does what it is intended to do it seems.

Last edited by Magellan; 08-27-2008 at 07:41 PM..
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:28 PM   #29 (permalink)
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When I was talking to the R&D guy at Dunefest he said it was important to make sure the pipe was pulled up along the long straight side of the front pipe and that would make fitment much easier and make sure you had clearance everywhere, especially by the plastic cover. Stock heat shields are fine Clearance is fine for me, no problems at all, and for additional heat shielding I wrapped with header wrap. Very tedious but huge difference in heat.

Sounds like they need to make their instructions a little clearer, and have more pics or a way to make that long front pipe stay in the proper place. You are right the rear pipe is hte one I had trouble with, getting it to line up right, its too hard to see if the gasket is in the right place and I crushed it when it was not in the right place.

I hope they step up and fix these problems, because I love the look and the sound ...
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:37 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I worked it along the frame just like you are saying. There is really not that much movement you can do with it, the springs line it up pretty well. I will take more photos today when it gets light. I also header wrapped mine. How many miles at what speed have you driven yours since you installed the Muzzy's? I have driven mine about 100 miles at an average speed of over 23 MPH on my GPS. I drove as much of it WOT as I could. If you drive enough I bet your plastic alternator cover will be melted. Mine is with the wrap and also the shield and there was as much clearance as I could get between the heat shield and the plastic. Anyway, this one pic shows how high my 2 into 1 into 2 is and the insulation coming off my rear Muzzy's heat shield that attaches to the rear left motor mount..

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Last edited by Magellan; 08-28-2008 at 06:19 AM..
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