Teryx HQ banner

Muzzy's Exhaust Install problems - Does yours fit your Teryx?

11K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  Magellan 
#1 · (Edited)
This is copied from another thread so I can hopefully get some advice on getting my #1 head pipe cut down so it won't contact the front factory heat shield and keep the alternator cover from melting. I really want to ride my machine
OK here are some photos.









Problem 2:

Melted Alternator Cover. (Why Kawasaki made it plastic I don't know)

How do I route the head pipe 2 farther away from the plastic is something that I am having a very hard time figuring out.





I really like this system, but I am not sure at all how to solve these problems.



 
See less See more
8
#4 · (Edited)
I heard from Murray at Muzzy's yesterday on my cell (thanks Dieselpowered) and he is sending me a new headpipe that he says will arrive on Tuesday. I am really looking forward to going riding, it was kinda painful to take an empty toy hauler on this camping trip. Thank you for contacting me Murray.

Towerdog, thank you for helping. I hope my photos will help. I can take more when I re-install showing my routing options.

<joke-on>And to add insult to injury, I get the same fuel mileage in my 2500HD with or without the Teryx in the hauler.<joke-off> <G> This is true, the insult and stuff was the joke.. Sorry have not had coffee yet.
 
#5 ·
Update 9-2-08

Murray did indeed send me a new front #1 Headpipe, along with front #2 headpipe and rear #1 and #2 headpipes. Muzzy's is DEFINITELY trying to help me, which is awesome. The new pipes they sent are also ceramic coated which is really cool, do I still need to pipe wrap them?

Anyway, wanted to check back in and let you guys know that Muzzy's is trying their best to help. They even sent me new Kawasaki gaskets. I have to work this morning, but I will check back once I get home and try to install the system again. I am excited!! Thank you Murray.
 
#7 ·
That is indeed excellent of them! Please let us know if those new pipes work out for you!
 
#8 ·
Yes Murray has definitely helped a TON so far. Here is what the Ceramic coated pipes look like. Got the machine all jacked up and will try to reinstall the new pipes tomorrow.. er today. Would love to hear from someone if I should still wrap the new ceramic coated pipes.. is it necessary?

Also, the new instructions I received with the pipes from Muzzy's are a LOT more detailed and the photos are now in color and easier to figure out for sure. Nice improvement in the docs Muzzy's!!

Thank you Murray, I will call once I install. Hey I rhymed at 3AM!! WOW!! Not even had coffee yet. :)

 

Attachments

#9 ·
The ceramic coating will help keep the heat down a little, but nothing close to what the header wrap will.
 
#10 ·
SUCCESS. The new front #1 head pipe worked, there is about 3/16 to 1/4 space at least most likely even more between the header and the front heat shield now. HOORAY!! Muzzy's was 100% on the fix. Thank you Murray and Muzzy's. Overall, I got off to a bad start but Muzzy's has been 100% on customer service since I made the proper contact with them. Maybe 110%. :yahoo: Thank you DieselPowered!!

Just got done with a test ride and all is well. I went ahead and sledged... I mean modded the front heat shield for about 3/4 of clearance anyway so not hot interior.

Hope to pla with the F/A Ratio Gauge tomorrow, I can feel it is going to be a great day!!
 
#11 ·
Now this is great news, so happy to hear that it all worked out!!

I take it you have the correct spacing between the pipe and the stator cover as well?
 
#12 ·
I have a little more space between the Stator cover, not a hell of a lot, I am going out today to test will let you know if it melts again.

I have a metal Stator cover coming from Muzzy's, so melting will be a thing of the past VERY soon for sure, but there is a little more clearance.
 
#14 ·
No it is an add-on that is well worth the money. I will enjoy having 2 spare plastic covers hanging on the wall in my shop.

I have talked to UTVCrap and they may carry the cover and offer it with the exhaust. Call Nick or someone there if you want it with your Muzzy's system. I know they have the Muzzy's exhaust systems in stock there as well for those who want it.
 
#16 · (Edited)
It is definitely louder. I think I have at least a little more power because There is a tight turn around on the corner of my property where if you can't do a 180 you have to pull forward and back up two times to turn around. With my Vinson, especially once I did some work on it, I can always 180 there easy. With the Teryx, I could not really 180 there consistently but I can about 2 or 3 out of 4 times since I installed the Muzzy's. I know this is not really a great description, but... Ok another way to describe it..

Top end, I see no difference. Mid range running about 10 to 15 and up to 50 or so, I can see the most difference. Since the Muzzy's, it seems to have a lot more nail you to the seat from about 15 to 45 or so indicated. then it flattens out from about 50 or so all the way to 63 indicated. I have the Hunterworks kit as you know, so from ZERO to 10 has always been quick with the faster throttle slide opening of the carbs. I can't tell a whole lot of difference from zero to about 10 with the Muzzy's it had great quick throttle snapping open even with the stock exhaust once I installed the HW kit.

OK there you have my butt opinion. I am running the HW curve on my CDI, and I have tried curve #2 as well. I think curve #2 has a little more power, but I run your curve for machine longevity. I am very curious to see what you found on the Dyno.

Yes I used the F/A Ratio Gauge before the last ride and it helped smooth out the sputter a little, and also the mid range seems even better. I am pretty sure the sputter may be tuning. I will try to shoot a video showing how much less sputter is there on my machine now. It is not completely gone yet, but it is a LOT better since using the A/F Gauge.

One thing I have noticed is that I am running only 2 sizes apart in my jets since the Muzzys, I used to run 3 sizes apart with the stock. Currently running 136F 138R since the A/F Gauge. Really like this combo so far, but only have about 35 miles in the woods on it at this point. I tuned for 1 of the TPI's open at the elevation where I live about 2000ft.

Is this what you found on the Dyno? Sounds like you already know. :)
 
#23 ·
Thank you Rob. I am looking forward to the more quiet packing you guys are testing if y ou decide it is good enough to be a potential product you would sell. I will receive the metal stator cover today and will install it. The plastic is still fine after the ceramic pipe and also I spaced teh heat shield out abut 3/16 but not sure if it was really needed or not.

Thanks again, you guys make an AWESOME product and support it well. Email sucks it is not your fault or mine, just the sad state of unreliability that it has become. :(
 
#26 ·
Magellan,

If you are getting the 12.5 at WOT throttle with one valve closed, I assume when you open the other valve up it leans out. This would be great for a guy who starts at low elevation and goes high as all he would have to do is open the second on up.

For a flat lander then you should open the second one on up and put the next size larger jets in for a added boost in power. More fuel and air more power!!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top