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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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teyrx belt adjustment ( how hard to do?? )

Has anyone adjusted there belt by themselves yet? I pulled my bass boat out of my barn a couple times and noticed that I could smell the belt slipping some. I used 4x4 and the low range but it was hard on the machine I think. I'm talking fairly level ground too. I do a have a small hump I have to roll over with the boat to get it outside and that is where the strain on the machine comes to be noticed. All in all, I think I won't be using it again for this task. I'll use my truck. If anyone has the service page on this could they post it.

Thanks!!!!!! Dennis
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 06:26 AM
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You should be able to pull out the largest bass boat no problem. I have used my Teryx to move my 26' Pontoon boat and I had to move it up a hill. Sounds like your belt has to much deflection. Mine was out of spec by the 20 hour service and my dealership did not check it even though I told them it was slipping. I know they did not because I put clear scotch magic tape on one of the bolts hoding down the inspection cover. So... I talked to Todd at Hunterworks who told me the CLutch Puller nad Spring compressor you need to adjust it myself. Also, Stakk who used to be here on TeryxHQ, not sure if he still is or not for sure but he gave me what has proven to be true for over 50 hours advice. He told me when I adjust it, that I should take out the thin shim on the driven pulley from the getgo. The belt will be a little tight at first but after the first 20 or so hours, it would be great and it has been. I run my Teryx HARD as it will go and race everyone I can find to race on the trails.

It is not that hard to do, I will be doing a video on installing a Dalton Clutch Kit and Cap very soon, but until then you can go to the link below and see some photos I took. If you don't have air tools it would be a little harder as you will need the special drive and driven pulley holders to remove the bolts from them. With an impact gun, you can hold them with your hand. Maybe hard to understand but I will show in the video.

Hope this helps.

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2011 50" STD RZR LE
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 06:54 AM
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Video on Belt Adjustment

I look forward to your video on belt adjustment...a video is worth a thousand words!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 07:50 AM
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Thank you FLTeryx!! I appreciate your encouragement. The video will be more of a clutch and cap install, but since I have to change the spring on the driven pulley where you remove the shims, I can show almost everything for adjusting your belt deflection. I hope to start it today possibly.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 10:44 AM
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I posted some pictures of my homemade driven clutch compressor, the rod I used was 5/8 and the bell was a 2" x 3/4", but I think I shimmed it down some if I remember right, Oh and the rod was around 18" inches or so.

You should be able to pick this stuff up at lowes or somewhere for less than $20.00 I would think.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-28-2008, 12:10 PM
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This may help you save some time.....

It's unlikely you will totally eliminate the adjustment shim on the driven, unless your belt is out of spec, too worn out.

Kawi makes 5 different thickness shims from .3 - 1.44 mm, you can use 1 or a combination of shims to do the adjust, if you use more than 1 put the thinner one toward the NON movable side of the sheave. Since taking the driven apart to change shims on a trial and error basis is TIME CONSUMING here is a general rule to get close faster. .1mm shim thickness equals about a 1/16" change in deflection.

To check deflection, you are looking for about 7/8" to 1'' deflection with about a 12lb force applied at a 90 deg angle to the belt at mid span.

This one's worth it's weight in gold...There are 4 pins which must be removed inside the bore of the driven sheave and they get packed with grease on re assembly. If you pack too much grease in the grooves (never build the grease up higher than the grooves) the next time you will go nuckin futs trying to put the driven sheave back on the input shaft. This is because the excess grease acts hydraulically and as you push one pin in another pushes out. So the pins are never all in and won't go on the shaft.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 05:28 AM
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The grease that holds the pins in the Driven pulley is not just regular grease, it is very specialized stuff from reading the manual. Closest thing I can find to it is the Honda 60% Moly, is that good enough djsinc1006? The Kawasaki service manual calls for 3 specific Moly grease options that I cannot find anywhere, how did you find it? WR500-No.2 (Kyodo Yushi) or Power Lite WR #2 or Seran-HV (Total Fina)

Here is what I got.. will it work for the pins?


Also, there was enough grease from the factory to make it very hard to keep all 4 pins in and reinstall the driven pulley already, so I have not had to add any in 2 times taking it apart. I think next time I will. I found a small screwdriver handle I could stick in there until right before I put it back on the shaft and that worked well to hold them in and make it easy to reinstall the first time. The second time as you can see in the Dalton Clutch install video I shot it was a lot easier to put back onto the shaft.

Here is a video that shows a lot of what is being discussed here and shows you a little about the drive nad driven pulleys.

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Last edited by Magellan; 09-29-2008 at 05:05 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 09:50 PM
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We've been testing with a High Temp Moly similar to what you have selected. Have seen no gauling or evidence of thermal breakdown, we couldn't source the recomended product either. We're in Florida and our test track is 65% loamy sand, 35% sandy clay, we can get belt temps up pretty high. Our main focus is how hard can we pull out of the corners in the sand to get over the jumps.

I noticed you're in Western NC, we'll be there Wednesday this week, Murphy to be exact. We have a house in the Bear Paw area. We're there (a little early for leaves) for our fall Harley ride.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 10:24 PM
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Thank you for the video. That really makes it easy for me. You had mentioned that you had the air box mod. What air box and filter do you have? If I am running in the dunes alot, will the dalton clutch be the right one for me? Do you believe the kawi belt is better than the heavy duty belts all these shops are trying to sell?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-30-2008, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djsinc1006 View Post
We've been testing with a High Temp Moly similar to what you have selected. Have seen no gauling or evidence of thermal breakdown, we couldn't source the recomended product either. We're in Florida and our test track is 65% loamy sand, 35% sandy clay, we can get belt temps up pretty high. Our main focus is how hard can we pull out of the corners in the sand to get over the jumps.

I noticed you're in Western NC, we'll be there Wednesday this week, Murphy to be exact. We have a house in the Bear Paw area. We're there (a little early for leaves) for our fall Harley ride.
Very interesting. I got lucky and found an old motorcycle site that talked about the Honda Moly 60 paste and my local dealer had some. Thanks again for the info!! I would love to ride with you guys down that way sometime. I could probably get a few friends to come along as well.

Thanks for the info!!

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