As many of you have read. I was taught by a Kawasaki Mechanic to remove the thin shim from the secondary when installing a new belt. Yes your belt will be a little tight but within specs and squeal a little if you sit still with the machine in gear for the first 20 or so hours, but after the belt breaks in, the deflection will be perfect.
Ok so here is how it is done.
When you remove the CVT Cover you see the following. Remember that the primary or drive pulley (clutch) bolt has reverse threads on it but the puller is standard threads!!
To get the clutch off, you need a clutch puller. You will also need a spring compressor, this one is the EPI brand. At this time I also mark the two sheaves to make it easy for me to line up the two sheaves when putting them back together.
You use this spring compressor to remove a big C clip and then remove the secondary spring from the secondary or driven pulley.
Once the spring is removed, you will remove 4 little internal pins from the secondary to take the sheaves apart and get to the shims to remove the thin one. This photo shows the spring removed and one of the pins pulled out just a bit to give you an idea of what you are working with.
Here are what the 4 pins look like all removed. They have special molybdenum disulfide grease on them that is very sticky. Be very careful when you are pulling apart the sheaves as there are O-rings on the secondary shaft and the sheave you will remove that can be damaged easily.
Once you take apart the two sheaves, you can now see the two shims. One is thicker than the other. We want to remove the thin one and reinstall the thick between the sheaves. Click the bar above this photo to see it large size and you can see the shims a lot better.
Ok now for the tricky part. Once you put the two sheaves back together, you have to line it up right and press the pins back in. Because of the thick and sticky grease, it takes some finesse to keep them from sliding back out on their own as they want to keep backing back out. I use this tool below to lower then down so I can press them into their holes with one finger. This tool is a magnet on a stick, it works great to lower down the pins for reinsertion.
Once I have all 4 in, I drop in a small screwdriver (handle down) to hold them in place, wait about 10 minutes and they will be done with the backing out on their own. I guess the pressure behind them is released slowly over time due to the special and thick grease.
Basically that is it. Recompress the secondary spring.(the one in the photo is a Dalton) BE SURE TO CLEAN the sheaves on both primary and secondary before you reinstall. Then reinstall.
You can see that I am using an EPI belt this time with the Dalton Clutch Kit and Dalton Billet OD Clutch Cover. Look how much more vented the Dalton OD Cover is than stock.