How To: Remove thin shim from driven pulley to fix/tighten CVT Belt Deflection - Kawasaki Teryx Forums: Kawasaki UTV Teryx Forum
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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How To: Remove thin shim from driven pulley to fix/tighten CVT Belt Deflection

As many of you have read. I was taught by a Kawasaki Mechanic to remove the thin shim from the secondary when installing a new belt. Yes your belt will be a little tight but within specs and squeal a little if you sit still with the machine in gear for the first 20 or so hours, but after the belt breaks in, the deflection will be perfect.

Ok so here is how it is done.
When you remove the CVT Cover you see the following. Remember that the primary or drive pulley (clutch) bolt has reverse threads on it but the puller is standard threads!!


To get the clutch off, you need a clutch puller. You will also need a spring compressor, this one is the EPI brand. At this time I also mark the two sheaves to make it easy for me to line up the two sheaves when putting them back together.

You use this spring compressor to remove a big C clip and then remove the secondary spring from the secondary or driven pulley.



Once the spring is removed, you will remove 4 little internal pins from the secondary to take the sheaves apart and get to the shims to remove the thin one. This photo shows the spring removed and one of the pins pulled out just a bit to give you an idea of what you are working with.



Here are what the 4 pins look like all removed. They have special molybdenum disulfide grease on them that is very sticky. Be very careful when you are pulling apart the sheaves as there are O-rings on the secondary shaft and the sheave you will remove that can be damaged easily.



Once you take apart the two sheaves, you can now see the two shims. One is thicker than the other. We want to remove the thin one and reinstall the thick between the sheaves. Click the bar above this photo to see it large size and you can see the shims a lot better.



Ok now for the tricky part. Once you put the two sheaves back together, you have to line it up right and press the pins back in. Because of the thick and sticky grease, it takes some finesse to keep them from sliding back out on their own as they want to keep backing back out. I use this tool below to lower then down so I can press them into their holes with one finger. This tool is a magnet on a stick, it works great to lower down the pins for reinsertion.



Once I have all 4 in, I drop in a small screwdriver (handle down) to hold them in place, wait about 10 minutes and they will be done with the backing out on their own. I guess the pressure behind them is released slowly over time due to the special and thick grease.




Basically that is it. Recompress the secondary spring.(the one in the photo is a Dalton) BE SURE TO CLEAN the sheaves on both primary and secondary before you reinstall. Then reinstall.


You can see that I am using an EPI belt this time with the Dalton Clutch Kit and Dalton Billet OD Clutch Cover. Look how much more vented the Dalton OD Cover is than stock.
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2011 Teryx Sport
2011 50" STD RZR LE

Last edited by Magellan; 04-30-2009 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:51 AM
 
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Great photo demo. I have been Thinking about doing this but not able to go for it. Maybe now I will have to reconsider. Thanks
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:32 AM
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Excellent write-up, Magellan. I can attest that those pins are the most difficult part of the entire process and it looks like you've found some creative solutions for reinstalling them.
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:56 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magellan View Post
As many of you have read. I was taught by a Kawasaki Mechanic to remove the thin shim from the secondary when installing a new belt. Yes your belt will be a little tight but within specs and squeal a little if you sit still with the machine in gear for the first 20 or so hours, but after the belt breaks in, the deflection will be perfect.

Ok so here is how it is done.
When you remove the CVT Cover you see the following. Remember that the primary or drive pulley (clutch) bolt has reverse threads on it but the puller is standard threads!!


To get the clutch off, you need a clutch puller. You will also need a spring compressor, this one is the EPI brand. At this time I also mark the two sheaves to make it easy for me to line up the two sheaves when putting them back together.

You use this spring compressor to remove a big C clip and then remove the secondary spring from the secondary or driven pulley.



Once the spring is removed, you will remove 4 little internal pins from the secondary to take the sheaves apart and get to the shims to remove the thin one. This photo shows the spring removed and one of the pins pulled out just a bit to give you an idea of what you are working with.



Here are what the 4 pins look like all removed. They have special molybdenum disulfide grease on them that is very sticky. Be very careful when you are pulling apart the sheaves as there are O-rings on the secondary shaft and the sheave you will remove that can be damaged easily.



Once you take apart the two sheaves, you can now see the two shims. One is thicker than the other. We want to remove the thin one and reinstall the thick between the sheaves. Click the bar above this photo to see it large size and you can see the shims a lot better.



Ok now for the tricky part. Once you put the two sheaves back together, you have to line it up right and press the pins back in. Because of the thick and sticky grease, it takes some finesse to keep them from sliding back out on their own as they want to keep backing back out. I use this tool below to lower then down so I can press them into their holes with one finger. This tool is a magnet on a stick, it works great to lower down the pins for reinsertion.



Once I have all 4 in, I drop in a small screwdriver (handle down) to hold them in place, wait about 10 minutes and they will be done with the backing out on their own. I guess the pressure behind them is released slowly over time due to the special and thick grease.




Basically that is it. Recompress the secondary spring.(the one in the photo is a Dalton) BE SURE TO CLEAN the sheaves on both primary and secondary before you reinstall. Then reinstall.


You can see that I am using an EPI belt this time with the Dalton Clutch Kit and Dalton Billet OD Clutch Cover. Look how much more vented the Dalton OD Cover is than stock.
Hey Magellan,
I forgot to ask you earlier. Did removing the thin shim really make a noticable difference in your clutch hook up? Key word being NOTICABLE! If you were not changing your belt at the same time, is the 2 + hrs of work worth it just to remove the shim?
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertdog615 View Post
Hey Magellan,
I forgot to ask you earlier. Did removing the thin shim really make a noticable difference in your clutch hook up? Key word being NOTICABLE! If you were not changing your belt at the same time, is the 2 + hrs of work worth it just to remove the shim?
Removing the shim is how you set proper belt deflection. You ideally need to be at about 7/8" with any belt (once it is broken in and stretched I think about 20 hours) to get the best wear on the belt and performance of the machine. I start out with the thin shim removed because I know once the belt breaks in, it will be right at 7/8 without the thin shim. I have only used Kawasaki Factory and EPI HD belts and 7/8 after break-in with thin shim out works great for me.

Kawasaki says the deflection range is:
Belt Deflection
Standard: 22 ∼ 27 mm (0.87 ∼ 1.06 in.)

On the stock clutch setup, having a loose belt does seem to make it easier to get the belt slipping, but with any aftermarket clutch, you would probably break a loose belt before a loose belt would start causing a lot of slippage IMHO. I think the looser your belt is out of spec, the harder it is to drive the machine without slippage with the stock clutch.

Thank you Dick.

2011 Teryx Sport
2011 50" STD RZR LE
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:36 PM
 
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Mag-

I did my own dalton kit but I did not put that special grease on the pins. Was I suppose to and if I was were do I get it. I have my clutch apart again... I am having VJohnforce work the clutch over!!!!!!!!!!

So, when I put the clutch back in do I need to put the special grease on them???????? Or will any grease work?

Thanks-

Shane
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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I would use the special grease. The closest thing I have found to what it calls for in the service manual is the Honda Moly 60 paste that I ordered from MR Motorcycle. I used it last time on my 08 and it is working great. The Dalton kit was easy to install huh? Very easy.

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Old 05-01-2009, 06:17 PM
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Question

Mag, is the shim that you are saying to take out the same shim they tell you to remove to adjust your clutch belt? ( not replacing it with a new one, but using your old belt)

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Old 05-02-2009, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scmo777 View Post
Mag, is the shim that you are saying to take out the same shim they tell you to remove to adjust your clutch belt? ( not replacing it with a new one, but using your old belt)
There are two shims a thick and a thin. Yes the thin is what you want to take out as long as it will bring your belt back into specs then that is fine.The deflection has to be correct, and the belt has to be the right width as well.

Basically without changing the belt, you will need to take out the thin shim. Measure the width of your belt and make sure it is also in spec and if it is, you do not need to change your belt if removal of the thin shim puts your deflection within specs.

Specs:
Converter System
Belt Width 30.0 ∼ 30.6 mm (1.181 ∼ 1.205 in.) Service Limit 28.3 mm (1.114 in.)
Belt Deflection 22 ∼ 27 mm (0.87 ∼ 1.06 in.)


Here you can see me measuring deflection with a straight edge and my clutch puller. I marked the puller then measured the mark. As you can see my belt was WAY out of spec on the loose side. Removal of the thin shim did not fix it because the belt was worn to the point of being not wide enough anymore due to me driving the machine way to long with a loose belt so I had to change the belt anyway.



2011 Teryx Sport
2011 50" STD RZR LE

Last edited by Magellan; 05-02-2009 at 03:24 AM.
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