2008 teryx transmission clunking!!!HELP!!! - Kawasaki Teryx Forums: Kawasaki UTV Teryx Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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2008 teryx transmission clunking!!!HELP!!!

Ok, I installed the washer mods and dynatech cdi and what a difference...Thanks for the info guys. Just takes forever to start with the new cdi, wow!, it really is a pain. I guess im going to have to re-jet?

To the real issue on hand though, I took it out last weekend at a mudding event (TCR) lake wales, Fl. About three hours in and lots of mudding or should I say getting stuck...I went up a slight incline and thats when it happened. The teryx seems like it got stuck so I mashed the pedal and white smoke poured out from the belt. I had to get it towed back while clunking all the way back.

The next morning started to take it apart and found that the belt was burned up on both sides which caused the pulley to move back and forth with every rev causing a clunking noise. (there it is, what I was hearing the clunking noise). I went ahead and put a new belt on and started her up, all good...No noise, problem solved...Put it in gear, and clunk! put it in rev, clunk!...Took the rear drive shaft off and spun the rear diff, all seemed good. With the rear shaft off I started the teryx up and put it into gear and there was the clunking again. Seems like there is something internal. It will drive but feels like it broke some of the teeth from the output shaft or something, sometimes I have to either rock it or put it into the opposite gear so it will loose it up then move?

I dont know for sure...What is involved in finding out for sure? I will not be able to afford taking it into the dealer so, I will be doing the work myself...I just dont know where to start. If I have to deal with any timming chains, anything other then the gears then I will have to rethink it.

Any help or any insight would really help. Its stock with the previous mentioned, on 14x9 27 front and 14x11 27 rear mudlights. Thanks....
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 02:04 PM
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What do you mean by clunk? Just when it goes into gear or it makes a noise constantly while driving it? Describe it a little better...
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OIDALE View Post
Ok, I installed the washer mods and dynatech cdi and what a difference...Thanks for the info guys. Just takes forever to start with the new cdi, wow!, it really is a pain. I guess im going to have to re-jet?

To the real issue on hand though, I took it out last weekend at a mudding event (TCR) lake wales, Fl. About three hours in and lots of mudding or should I say getting stuck...I went up a slight incline and thats when it happened. The teryx seems like it got stuck so I mashed the pedal and white smoke poured out from the belt. I had to get it towed back while clunking all the way back.

The next morning started to take it apart and found that the belt was burned up on both sides which caused the pulley to move back and forth with every rev causing a clunking noise. (there it is, what I was hearing the clunking noise). I went ahead and put a new belt on and started her up, all good...No noise, problem solved...Put it in gear, and clunk! put it in rev, clunk!...Took the rear drive shaft off and spun the rear diff, all seemed good. With the rear shaft off I started the teryx up and put it into gear and there was the clunking again. Seems like there is something internal. It will drive but feels like it broke some of the teeth from the output shaft or something, sometimes I have to either rock it or put it into the opposite gear so it will loose it up then move?

I dont know for sure...What is involved in finding out for sure? I will not be able to afford taking it into the dealer so, I will be doing the work myself...I just dont know where to start. If I have to deal with any timming chains, anything other then the gears then I will have to rethink it.

Any help or any insight would really help. Its stock with the previous mentioned, on 14x9 27 front and 14x11 27 rear mudlights. Thanks....
Hard to tell from the details given but if you live in north FL we are just up in central MS and specialize in this kind of repair on Teryx's and Rhino's also have cheaper rates than a dealer.

If it is the gears the case will have to be split and you will have to deal with timing chains cause the heads and cylinders must come off to split case where the tranny is.

We also offer a service where you ship your complete engine and we repair and return it.

Todd



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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yes its internal...When you either put it into forward or reverse and it starts to move then thats when you hear the clunking...Also made it while the bike was in neutral and being pulled. I did check to see if it was either front or rear diff and thats not the problem.

Todd how much would it cost me to ship from 34715, Im in central florida near Orlando.

I was going to take it apart myself but if its too involved then Im not sure I can handle it. I used to work on banshee's all the time splitting there cases but when it comes to four strokes and a twin on top of that, then I become a little weary.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OIDALE View Post
Yes its internal...When you either put it into forward or reverse and it starts to move then thats when you hear the clunking...Also made it while the bike was in neutral and being pulled. I did check to see if it was either front or rear diff and thats not the problem.

Todd how much would it cost me to ship from 34715, Im in central florida near Orlando.

I was going to take it apart myself but if its too involved then Im not sure I can handle it. I used to work on banshee's all the time splitting there cases but when it comes to four strokes and a twin on top of that, then I become a little weary.
If you let me have it picked up with my freight discount it should be about $100 to $150

I will ship you the shipping brackets for free and tell you how to crate it



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