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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
eez
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oversteer?

my rex doesnt seem to turn as well as it should, its like the front tires dont catch right away, i guess you would say its pushing in turns, i dunno if u call this oversteer or understeer but i was wondering if there is anything i could do to make it better like adjust suspension or something. Originally i thought it was due to my stock tires being bologna skins but have rockers on now its better but still think it could be improved. I have added some weight to my rex such as winch, tool box, roof, and always a cooler, so i wonder if stiffen up the front would help. I do notice front bottom on high speed bumps sometimes and back bucks around some. I have sport shocks all around but never adjusted a shock in my life. Any help appreciated or if someone could direct me to a shock adjust link.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 12:48 PM
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You can "Toe-In" the front wheels slightly and it will make a dramatic difference in how it turns. It comes from the factory slightly "Toe-out" . Using a string to measure, loosin the tierod to adjust and move them back to center. Do not go in to a Toe in position. It will be too much. Once you do this be careful about abrubt turns especially on blacktop at higher speeds.



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eez View Post
my rex doesnt seem to turn as well as it should, its like the front tires dont catch right away, i guess you would say its pushing in turns, i dunno if u call this oversteer or understeer but i was wondering if there is anything i could do to make it better like adjust suspension or something. Originally i thought it was due to my stock tires being bologna skins but have rockers on now its better but still think it could be improved. I have added some weight to my rex such as winch, tool box, roof, and always a cooler, so i wonder if stiffen up the front would help. I do notice front bottom on high speed bumps sometimes and back bucks around some. I have sport shocks all around but never adjusted a shock in my life. Any help appreciated or if someone could direct me to a shock adjust link.
Kinda nature of the beast with both wheels locked in rear. You can try taking sway bars off



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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 12:53 AM
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When I first got my Teryx it started doing like what you said, wanting to push and it drove me crazy for a few days, I have did or owned a shop where I do alignments for over 30 years, I blamed it on everything from alignment to I had added wheel spacers and I even blamed it on them and finally found it, the lever that you lock your front end with was just engageing enough to cause the steering to push, just pulled the lever back real hard and held it that stoped it , had to adjust it just a little bit and it drove perfect, made me feel like a fool.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bigdaddy View Post
When I first got my Teryx it started doing like what you said, wanting to push and it drove me crazy for a few days, I have did or owned a shop where I do alignments for over 30 years, I blamed it on everything from alignment to I had added wheel spacers and I even blamed it on them and finally found it, the lever that you lock your front end with was just engageing enough to cause the steering to push, just pulled the lever back real hard and held it that stoped it , had to adjust it just a little bit and it drove perfect, made me feel like a fool.
if i jack the front end up while in 2wd and spin a wheel would the other wheel spin normally??
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 09:05 AM
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Yes, they both will spin if they are off the ground. Apply just a little resistance to one though and the other should spin independantly. this due to the clutches in the front diff.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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i know i need to adjust my diff lock cuz i noticed both wheels not spinning when fully locked via lever, just wonder if its not fully disengaging causing it to push, hopefully nothin wrong inside diff but i know its workin just not full lock, this freakin machine is alot of maintainence. My rhino buddies dont have nearly the issues and they ride every bit as hard as me (just not as fast) they wont jump the fence to a teryx cuz there holdin out for twin cylinder rhino that they say is comin out, startin to wonder if i should join them
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 05:04 PM
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I had an 07 660 Rhino for 3 years before i bought the Teryx. I have nothing bad to say about the Rhino. I really liked the machine. With that being said, i bought a new 2010 Teryx and sold the Rhino. The Teryx is all around a much more heavy duty built machine, that you never have to worry about running out of power with. I do like the front locker on the Rhino better, but the Teryx is not that bad and is easily adjusted when it needs it. The Rhino's clutch and belt is more maintenance friendly than the Teryx, but is much lacking in performance when compared to the Teryx clutch. I believe Airdam is getting ready to take care of the Teryx clutch maintenance issue with a new CV Tech clutch for it. Teryx has much more power and a better braking system than the Rhino.

You can buy a new Teryx now for about 1K less than a Rhino. That makes it a no brainer. Use the 1K for a MSD and a new CV Tech clutch when it comes out, and you have a much more substantial machine for the money than with a Rhino.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvyankee2 View Post
I had an 07 660 Rhino for 3 years before i bought the Teryx. I have nothing bad to say about the Rhino. I really liked the machine. With that being said, i bought a new 2010 Teryx and sold the Rhino. The Teryx is all around a much more heavy duty built machine, that you never have to worry about running out of power with. I do like the front locker on the Rhino better, but the Teryx is not that bad and is easily adjusted when it needs it. The Rhino's clutch and belt is more maintenance friendly than the Teryx, but is much lacking in performance when compared to the Teryx clutch. I believe Airdam is getting ready to take care of the Teryx clutch maintenance issue with a new CV Tech clutch for it. Teryx has much more power and a better braking system than the Rhino.

You can buy a new Teryx now for about 1K less than a Rhino. That makes it a no brainer. Use the 1K for a MSD and a new CV Tech clutch when it comes out, and you have a much more substantial machine for the money than with a Rhino.
where can i find info on this cv tech clutch, as if i need to spend more money on this thing, i do love my ride but just seem like its always something, good thing i like to tinker
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2010, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
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where can i find info on this cv tech clutch, as if i need to spend more money on this thing, i do love my ride but just seem like its always something, good thing i like to tinker
Contact them here. They are just starting to test the Teryx clutch. I'm sure it wont be long before it's out.

Airdam Clutches


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