Thanks for the support guys. I appoligise that I have not had much time to check in here lately. During the condensed snowmobile season we have over 2000 snowmobile dealerships that rely on us for many specific snowmobile related applications which means long focused hours sometimes.
I'm certainly not here to run down Glen Erlandson (the former owner of EPI) or any competitor. Everyone has their ways of doing things and I respect all of them.
We are quite often asked this question, and the differences are not simply the adjustability,although it is a great benefit. The adjustability is a great thing because you never have to:
- wonder if you are choosing the correct kit for your application
- buy a different kit if you change your tires or modification
- you can fine tune to pefect, accurate calibration of the clutches for a different circumstance, etc
...our method of flyweight gram adjustment is patented, and although many will simply set up the kit for their intended application and never touch it, there are others that may continue to add mods or make changes to the bike as they go along modifying a bit at a time. We have in fact tested the most popular big bores with longer duration camshafts, and can also help with calibration for that, as they require specific, different clutching most times to get the real benefeits of the engine kit.
But in addition to all of that, we did extensive R&D to our Teryx with many different forms of modification, tires, pipes, engine kits, etc.
The Teryx uses a version of the kawi drive clutch much like the 08 and newer brute force atv with the newer "wide pin" flyweights. It IS a different clutch with larger cooling fins and different spider goemetry, but uses the same wide pin design.
When the Teryx came we had already had weights for the newer 08 and up Brute750...and also, in fact, we even had "quick adjust" ones for it too.
These weights would bolt right in the way they were. It is always easiest to use something you already have. At first this is exactly what we did and did quite a bit of testing...assuming, like others, that it was going to be a quick variation of Brute clutching. We actually had some very good test results in ET times and drags, etc and thought we were going to be through this model rather quickly.
Some other companies offer as many as 7 or 8 different "kits" for the teryx, the most of the differences are flyweight grams...that is where the "quick adjust "comes in...because the principal adjustment of clutch rpm during the shift phase is flyweights. Different conditions and tires,etc require faster or slower upshift to get the engine to run at peak hp rpm.
...but as we continued and started more in depth testing we started to realize that we needed to look at more than just "RPM" and the rest of the clutching involved. When testing with 30 inch tires some things started to show up. In fact, the whole vehicle is not only heavier, but it is often required to haul 2 people, have more weight loaded on it, etc. We started to realize why EVEN KAWASAKI engineers had used a whole different style of flyweight curvature, etc than they did on the brute force models (although ours is different again than that).
Doing simple ET runs with small tires in ideal conditions alllowed us to run the Brute force curve, etc, but in more straining situations we realized there was more to it as belt temps would rise quickly, indicating more slippage.
Long story (and I cant type very well) but in the end we ended up with some excellent results and a new flyweight design that offered us the flexibility to tune for many different situations and with the things built into the kit like optional engagement springs,etc...we feel our kit offers the most accurate calibration for most by simply following the set up manual in the kit, along with some personal preference options. We offer that you can get hold of the belt more positivly, and have the tunability to grow with your teryx mods and tune to perfection
Our clutch calibration kits come with a 30 day satisfaction guarantee for the end user, no matter where you purchase it. I beleive we are the only one in the industry to do so, but not certain (it may be worth asking that question when buying other kits to see the response?)...either you have confidence in your product or you don't...and we don't get them back
..one of the things that comes along with that is that we don't simply sell a kit for every model out there...the product has to meet our requirements and parameters. That is why if you look on our website, you will see that on some models we do not even offer a kit. Not that we wouldn't like to, but maybe the gains are not there without too much negative trade offs, etc. On some vehicles, in order to get it quick, there might be a side effect of revving too high during cruising, etc or big losses of top speed, or what have you. If you look at models like the 800 Sportsman, we only sell one spring and tell people that most times it is calibrated fine. We DO offer a kit for 30" MUD tires for that model, but for most trail application the factory had it calibrated quite well, nothing wrong with that
..on other models, like our most expensive clutch kit, the 400 outlander, it seems terribly high for a 400 cc model, but EVERYTHING needed changed. We have never seen a stock atv with so much inherent slippage from the factory, but it has very tall gearing and will run with most 500's, just hard on belts. The kit had to be expensive.
We do not have a kit at all for the rhino, we have large number of Yamaha dealers (particularly from the snowmobile world) that frequently call and say "c'mon guys, you should do something better than what is out there"
I often reply with "why, so you can talk about ME like that?" I think that there are a few good kits out there for rhinos for certain applications, but for the biggest part of the market (trail riding with 27" tires)...the recalibrations often both lose a good amount of top speed in favor of low end...and often they seem to be revving and going nowhere in the midrange cruising as another side effect. I personally do not like it, and like I mentioned, we offer satisfaction guarantee....
We are developing a couple of new secondary springs to be used alone and that will help some out and be cheap...and just as good as a whole kit. We will possibly do some case specific applications as well, but in general, a lot of Rhino applications don't need kits in our opinion.
As for our Dalton Teryx overdrive cover, it gains mph and offers more strength than cutting almost all the way thru a stock cast cover to acheive the same amount of overdrive. As well you gain the benefit of the better cooling from the fins/design. It is HARD anodized for durability at the spider contact points and is a quality product that evolved from the original one we had done for the 04 V-force atv. On the Teryx you can acheive more overdrive than on a v-force because the clutch is different, and you can do it with this bolt on instead of cutting the clutch itself. This is a BILLET part, and as with ANY billet part, it will be duplicated by many in some form or another by someone who will find a way to use less machining, or not hard coat it, or sell it a few $$ cheaper or whatever...the way of the world. There will always be those who invest and develop things and others who follow on their heels.
Both the Dalton clutch kit and the original Dalton overdrive cover have been tested and are available through Kawasaki USA in the Teryx Racing catalog, as well as some of the vendors here like Hunterworks who helps to support this forum with test results, etc.