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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2010, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Hot wiring the fan

Hey could anyone slightly smarter than myself answer this question for me. If I were to run wires from the battery and ground through an inline fuse and switch to the two wires on the rad fan would that work as a manual bypass, while still allowing the stock system to function proper???? I know that I could just buy a kit but it won't get here by sunday. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 10:09 AM
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Yepp that will work...I bought a switch with a light on it to let me know the fan was running (not that you can't hear it)...the downside is that sometimes I forget to turn it on and I overheat the damn thing...so be careful...

I have only left it on once and killed the battery...but I think it's a small price to pay for being able to start the fan ahead of the 195 degree "on" factory setting...

Just pull the wires at the stock radiator location and pull them back into the cab to where your switch is and connect them to each side of the switch. You may have to use a butt connector or other means to lengthen the stock wires. There should be no need to pull new wires from your battery. If you have a multi-meter you can check that one side of the wires is constantly hot. It doesn't matter which side of the switch you wire it to as the switch is breaking the current just like the stock radiator switch does. Piece of cake...
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Jim, it sounds like your machine is an 08 with that setup, mine is a 2010 and it is wired differently. My switch is not at the rad it is in the ECM. So I am attempting to just wire into the 2 wires that go into the fan leaving the stock wiring intact hopefully allowing me to turn the fan on manually as well as the machine doing it automatically

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2010 black, FST 840 stage II cams, DASA intake & injectors, BF throttle bodies, Msd, Muzzy Pro`s, Snorkeled, Warn XT 4000, EMP, 2 seat race cage, Custom rear Radiator, Unisteer, STI HD beadlocks and 30x10x14 EFX motoclaws
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 04:14 PM
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Ahhhh...interesting question...I don't see why it would not...it should be as simple as a normally open relay within the ECM...BUT...sending power down a wire into your ECM that isn't supposed to carry current at the time? Probably not recommended from the factory...I would have a spare ECM laying around for just in case...

And I still think you only need 1 wire. Your ground, off the fan, should always be in a closed position...if it's even on a relay at all...so technically you just need to "heat up" the fan...worth a try I guess...

PS...I love my 08...
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SandJunkie View Post
BUT...sending power down a wire into your ECM that isn't supposed to carry current at the time? Probably not recommended from the factory...I would have a spare ECM laying around for just in case...
Good point, I was wondering about that myself. I just got back from the store with a relay & switch and junk to wire it direct from the fan to my winch solenoid which is under the dash so I don't need to run wires all the way to the battery.

Let's just hope me and my bad remembary will turn it on.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 07:06 PM
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You know...come to think of it?...

Let's back track...if you could get a 12v double pole double throw relay?...

In theory...I will draw something up in ACAD real quick for you...

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 07:34 PM
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 07:38 PM
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This kind of thread is why I like all the forums I go to. You two are talking a language I don't understand, but I'm slowly learning and actually now have a reference.

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