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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Head Removal

Ok so the time has come to take the heads off the Rex and get the valves replaced. I am only riding about 10 hours before and adjustment. I have read the manual and it doesn't seem like to big of a job so I am just looking for any helpful tips or tricks. Also who would you suggest sending the heads to for the rebuild. I am not real happy with any of the local shops. Thanks for all the info and help.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by NEVERENOUGH View Post
Ok so the time has come to take the heads off the Rex and get the valves replaced. I am only riding about 10 hours before and adjustment. I have read the manual and it doesn't seem like to big of a job so I am just looking for any helpful tips or tricks. Also who would you suggest sending the heads to for the rebuild. I am not real happy with any of the local shops. Thanks for all the info and help.
Here is some good advice.

By the time you get everything off the engine and out of the way to remove both heads there is only the two engine bolts and a couple of electrical plugs holding it in so just pull the whole engine out and set it on the bench to work on. Also you can access it easier and clean it easier sitting on the bench. Would also be a good time to do what you might need to do in the clutch area such as put on some aftermarket parts or adjust belt. Quicker to pull the engine at this point than to remove all the gas tank stuff to get to the clutch with engine in

Since the cylinders to do not have large bolts holding them down I would suggest replacing the base gaskets too because once you take the pressure off of them they may leak if you just bolt the heads back down and might as well put new rings on the pistons.

As for as your heads are concerned, normally the seats are fine and you can buy valves and springs and just replace them with no work to heads.

Please buy aftermarket valves and springs to stop from having this issue in future.

Give me a call and I can fix you up with springs and valves and of course free advice on the install



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 07:03 AM
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I personally would leave it in, there is a bunch of stuff to take off before the motor is pulled. It was more than the 2 bolts for me. I'd rather just take the stuff on top off. Maybe I just took off too much stuff.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 04:57 PM
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pull it ,puting head back on is easyer with it out ,sent mine to big kev s performance.very cool guy to deal with.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 09:02 PM
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pull it ,puting head back on is easyer with it out ,sent mine to big kev s performance.very cool guy to deal with.
Big Kev is a good guy to deal with. I just installed a kit from him and the one I am working on now we are using his kit too.

Back to remove or not. I am doing one now. If you do it right where you can clean all the base gasket material off which is using a vacuum cleaner as you scrap so it does not get in the engine and other processes you will find it is just easier to pull it. Also if your doing a top end kit where you have to change the clutch then by pulling it you don't have to remove the gas tank or that bar there by it. Also its is much easier on your back working on it on the bench instead of in the vehicle.

Of course this is a opinion but it is based off about 10 builds in the last couple of months.




Last edited by Hunterworks; 09-28-2011 at 09:08 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 04:52 PM
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hey todd r the newer teryx like 2011-12 valves fix so u don`t need to adjust as much
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_steel_1959 View Post
hey todd r the newer teryx like 2011-12 valves fix so u don`t need to adjust as much
Still the same as far as I know

The reason you have to adjust them is they are deforming



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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 07:47 AM
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Still the same as far as I know

The reason you have to adjust them is they are deforming
I think the valve springs are the cause for the deforming. I have a 08 and have never had to adjust the valves. I big bored it put in double springs and has original valves. I have had my heads off twice since because of head gasket failures. But , I would check them before I removed the heads and they would be dead on.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 07:54 AM
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I am a in-frame guy. I have done many teryx's and I had one I pullled the engine for. I haven't done it since. It is much easier to do in frame even if you due your clutch at the same time. It is harder on the back but I believe it is alot faster and the time savings is worth the sore back.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2012, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYWILDCATS74 View Post
I think the valve springs are the cause for the deforming. I have a 08 and have never had to adjust the valves. I big bored it put in double springs and has original valves. I have had my heads off twice since because of head gasket failures. But , I would check them before I removed the heads and they would be dead on.
Just curious, how is it that weak springs cause valve deformation?
Also, if I were to put stiffer springs in, would i be able to saftely turn more rpms? Teryx is stock other than Msd, muzzy pro with wisper cores, clamp on uni, and stop kit. I currently have rev limiter set at 8,900.
Sorry for the hijack

Anthony

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