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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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20 hour check up

I called a few dealers to get quotes on the first check up, and they were all over the place on price. from 180.00 to 299.00. I guess my question is what would be a reasonable cost and what should the dealer be checking? One dealer said they were going to check it like a Mule.. Heck this thing don't even have any legs, however it sometimes has an azz in the seat. LOL But what should a good dealer be checking for other than fluid change?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 11:39 AM
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Here is the table from the service manual. HTH.

I paid 162 for my 20 hour and even though I told them it bucks and I thought the belt was loose or something they did not check the belt at all. I put clear tape on one of the inspection plate bolts that was untouched.... So I did the belt adjustment and now a replacement at 49 hours. From everything I read, you need to adjust the belt at 20 hours and it is not listed as something to adjust or even check in the service manual. This is what could separate your quotes, see if any of them include checking and adjusting if necessary your CVT belt.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 12:12 AM
 
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I'm just foing to buy a fluid kit from Amsoil and do it myself, best way to learn how to work on them is to do the routine stuff as it comes up............
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2008, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Fletch-c View Post
I called a few dealers to get quotes on the first check up, and they were all over the place on price. from 180.00 to 299.00. I guess my question is what would be a reasonable cost and what should the dealer be checking? One dealer said they were going to check it like a Mule.. Heck this thing don't even have any legs, however it sometimes has an azz in the seat. LOL But what should a good dealer be checking for other than fluid change?

Thanks Fletch
I've heard $200 for the 20 hour is going rate (my dealer is the same). They do not adjust the belt on the 20. Only an oil change and a bunch of checks (air filter, brake pads, choke play). If the belt is loose, you'll get a call from the dealer asking for more $$ to pull the shim out. The belt isn't even looked at (according to Kawi) until 200hr.

If you can change the oil do it yourself. mainly the 20 hour is to get the little chunks of metal out from the breakin period. If your having problems with belt slip (shim needs removed) thats another thing, but if not I wouldn't pay someone $200 to change my oil!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-09-2008, 01:26 AM
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Also talked to Kawi...Said no Belt adjustment needed...Per Schedule that is... Also they said that you can actually do your service before 20 hours...I have 8.9 and will do it after my next ride. That way most of the flakes will get out!!! Then use AMSOil... The dealer said that most of the engine wear/flaking occurs in the first 5 hours...and the crucial period is like the first 10 for breakin... The company pushes 20 just as a precaution... Up untill this point I have been at half throttle or less...
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-10-2008, 07:16 AM
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Also talked to Kawi...Said no Belt adjustment needed...Per Schedule that is... Also they said that you can actually do your service before 20 hours...I have 8.9 and will do it after my next ride. That way most of the flakes will get out!!! Then use AMSOil... The dealer said that most of the engine wear/flaking occurs in the first 5 hours...and the crucial period is like the first 10 for breakin... The company pushes 20 just as a precaution... Up untill this point I have been at half throttle or less...
My belt definitely needed adjusting before 20 hours. When I had my machine serviced for the 20 hour, I told them the belt was slipping, they did not even look at it. I just changed the belt at 39.6 hours and installed an EPI HD Belt and left out the thin shim. So far it is a big improvement over the warn out belt I took off the machine. I will not toast this belt, I will keep it adjusted. Also, I know Todd mentioned this before, but if you have air tools, it is much faster to get to the belt with an air ratchet, and with an impact gun you don't need the tools that Kawa shows in the manual to hold the drive or the driven pulleys. You can hold them with your hand while you take the nuts off. Remember the Drive pulley (clutch pulley) has reverse threads.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-11-2008, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Change

I did the first oil change. I purchased the oil from az-lube ( Amsoil ). It was easy . I am waiting for the new belt from Hunterworks, and I will replace that also. But it seems that we are not going to get the life out of these belts, that we should. I get thousands of miles from the belts on my Grizzlys. And they never get adjusted. Must be a design flaw there somewhere???? IMO
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 04:50 PM
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My dealer said they would check the valve clearance @ 20hr. Anyone else heard about this?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-30-2008, 12:34 PM
 
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Yes I have heard the same thing regarding a valve adjustment. However, the owners manual doesn't list the valve adjustment to be done at th e20 hr service. So, not sure what think???
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