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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-22-2009, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Unleashed UTV Clutch Kit

I have been working an inexspensive clutch kit that will get results for a minamal price like our Rhino clutch kit does and the parts are starting to come together. I have seen and tried the machined factory cover/cap and was looking for something a little different. So I decided to machine the spider and see what we get and so far we have been able to machine a little more off of it so hopefully that equates to more top speed. I will test this set up next weekend and report back. Here are a couple of pics. The first one is the factory spider and the second is a blurry cell phone pic but you can see what we are doing.





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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 07:00 AM
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Looking forward to the results. I hope it works like you are thinking.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 08:00 AM
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When you machine the cap the 2 sheaves touch, so how will this help?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 09:31 AM
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The sheaves will touch and you gain nothing more than the modded cover. So unless you are doing a complete clutch modification you will have just that.

Not to mention the Spider is THE HARDEST part to service on the clutch.

You need the special tools to disassemble the spider whicn NO ONE has. Let alone IF you do have the Kawy tools to do this. you WILL break the fins of the back of the clutch.

Trust me. I've been modding these for 6 years now.

Also cutting the spider like that WILL lead to failure. Been there done that. with pics to prove it.

John
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 06:19 PM
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Vforcejohn,

How do you feel about machining the stock clutch cover for a overdrive?



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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-23-2009, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VFORCEJOHN View Post
The sheaves will touch and you gain nothing more than the modded cover. So unless you are doing a complete clutch modification you will have just that.

Not to mention the Spider is THE HARDEST part to service on the clutch.

You need the special tools to disassemble the spider whicn NO ONE has. Let alone IF you do have the Kawy tools to do this. you WILL break the fins of the back of the clutch.

Trust me. I've been modding these for 6 years now.

Also cutting the spider like that WILL lead to failure. Been there done that. with pics to prove it.

John
Well thats the thing I am really not trying to achieve more than that just trying to not have to stock so many covers. How much did you machine off of the spider when you had failures?? and I have all of the special tools. I have machined caps just wanted to try something different.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 08:03 AM
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You can machine the cover, you can machine the spider. but once the sheaves touch, Overdrive has stopped.

I machine all 4 aspects of the clutch. Sheaves, Sheave angle, Spider clearance bottom and top, and I machine the faceplate lighter than any "aftermarket cover" and remove the KEBC braking nonsense Along with that I machine the COMPLETE outer movable sheave so it sits back closer than stock to the belt. So belt-sheave gap runs Less than 1/8th inch. so there is instant engagment.

With mods like a Muzzy, Dyna and rejetted. I can get the Teryx to pull the front wheels off the ground (traction permitted) just by modding the clutch and changing a 20.00 spring

far greater performance than anything you can buy today and bolt on to the clutch.

Machining the cover for me is/was a stage 1 clutch. I don't even sell that anymore.

Machining the spider. for consumers that is going to be a VERY hard IF not impossible part to replace for the average guy. AND IT WILL INVOLVE CLUTCH PULLING. where the faceplate does not. so more cost is involved just to get that "bolt on" part on the machine.

If you have taken the cltuch apart. you will find some spiders DO NOT want to separate. this is where too much force snaps the 3 sets of fins off the bottom of the clutch.

I had to CNC a jig to alleviate the cracking problem with stubborn clutches.so it holds ALL the fins instead of 3 nubs of a fin

along with replacing the spider, you should always shim the buttons to Zero-.004 on average clutches need a .002-.004 shimstock to keep the buttons tight. binding hampers performance, loose buttons can bind and cause higher RPM shiftout. Most people don't have access to shims

the only way to get the belt to the top of these clutches is to machine the complete clutch. the more overdrive you can give the lower geared Teryx ....the better.

John
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VFORCEJOHN View Post
You can machine the cover, you can machine the spider. but once the sheaves touch, Overdrive has stopped.

I machine all 4 aspects of the clutch. Sheaves, Sheave angle, Spider clearance bottom and top, and I machine the faceplate lighter than any "aftermarket cover" and remove the KEBC braking nonsense Along with that I machine the COMPLETE outer movable sheave so it sits back closer than stock to the belt. So belt-sheave gap runs Less than 1/8th inch. so there is instant engagment.

With mods like a Muzzy, Dyna and rejetted. I can get the Teryx to pull the front wheels off the ground (traction permitted) just by modding the clutch and changing a 20.00 spring

far greater performance than anything you can buy today and bolt on to the clutch.

Machining the cover for me is/was a stage 1 clutch. I don't even sell that anymore.

Machining the spider. for consumers that is going to be a VERY hard IF not impossible part to replace for the average guy. AND IT WILL INVOLVE CLUTCH PULLING. where the faceplate does not. so more cost is involved just to get that "bolt on" part on the machine.

If you have taken the cltuch apart. you will find some spiders DO NOT want to separate. this is where too much force snaps the 3 sets of fins off the bottom of the clutch.

I had to CNC a jig to alleviate the cracking problem with stubborn clutches.so it holds ALL the fins instead of 3 nubs of a fin

along with replacing the spider, you should always shim the buttons to Zero-.004 on average clutches need a .002-.004 shimstock to keep the buttons tight. binding hampers performance, loose buttons can bind and cause higher RPM shiftout. Most people don't have access to shims

the only way to get the belt to the top of these clutches is to machine the complete clutch. the more overdrive you can give the lower geared Teryx ....the better.

John
How much do you charge to do all of this?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VFORCEJOHN View Post

With mods like a Muzzy, Dyna and rejetted. I can get the Teryx to pull the front wheels off the ground (traction permitted) just by modding the clutch and changing a 20.00 spring

far greater performance than anything you can buy today and bolt on to the clutch.
How much for this set up?
I wanna wheelie!!!! With no fat people in the back that is!
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 11:04 AM
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I wanna wheelie with the kinda fat guy in the front seat.
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