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Did my 20 hour yesterday and everything went fairly smooth , except the gravel imprints on my back haven't gone away yet.. Just a joke!! Be careful not to lose the washer that is on the oil pan bolt, mine must have stuck to the pan and fell off in to the drip pan. I didn't even notice it until I went to pour the oil into a recycle container , and there the little bugger was.....in the bottom of the drip pan. I almost went errorless, not quite.....
 

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Just finsihed mine also. I need to buy something to make the diffs a little easier to fill but other than that not bad.
 

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I'm fixing to do this too....actually a little over due.....using it and not finding time to get to this.

Using the cross-reference oil filter list, I did just today look for a filter....and couldn't find anything but the Mobil m1108 automotive. I ignored looking for Fram, I just do not want to use them. Has anyone actually used that filter? I bought it, hope it will work.

BTW - what fluid did you use on the rear end.
 

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I used a kawi oil for the wet brake bought it at the dealer. I also used the kawi filter it was only $10. The front uses 10w40 motor oil.
 

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Rear uses Tractor hydraulic 10 w. Cheaper at Tractor supply, but you have to buy 5 gallon, so I think I should have just paid the extra and gotten the little bottles.
 

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I wouldn't use a FRAM filter in anything I own...they are very cheaply constructed. They use cardboard end caps that can become saturated with oil and fail, causing unfiltered oil to enter your motor. Buy a filter with at least steel end caps and a silicon anti-drain valve (pay a little more, but whats $4-$8 for piece of mind). There are a couple of good choices out there to be safe. I recommend WIX, AMSOIL, NAPA, Purolator, and K&N. All have steel end caps, silicon valve and use a tight filter pleat. I use WIX in both my Teryx and my quads.

The rear diff is nothing special hydralic/tractor fluid. The only problem I've heard (from customers) is that they are having a hard time find it in less than 1 gallon containers from tractor supply/repair places. Look for something that is compatable with John Deere J20(A,B,C,D) or CAT TO-2...if you need some help PM me I have it in quarts.

The front diff is whatever your putting in the motor. Kawi is SAE40 spec, so anything 40 weight will work, 0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40

Capacity:
Engine 2.43 qts
Front 0.95 qts
Rear 1.06 qts

Hope this helps you guys out...
 

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jcummins, I used the Mobil m1108 automotive filter too. It works.

I have not done the rear end yet cause I am waiting for my dealer to get the hydraulic/tractor fluid.

While I was doing it, I noticed that they forgot to connect the vent lines to the roll cage, and the gas tank vent line was resting on the header all cracked and melted! Yikes!

I am going to get a fire extinguisher on it before I go out again.
 

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Mobil filters are made by Champion Labs (not related to Champion spark plugs). I'd say the filters are good as far as quality for the "performance" model. Look out for the "encore" model as these use fiber ends caps and they combined the anti-drain and bypass valves into one. Rumor is that the "performance filters are no longer manufactured and the "encore" are the standard. If this is the case, I'd be a little weary about the "encore".
 

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So we just use Tractor hydraulic 10 w in the rear? Im at 63hrs on mine and havent done the diffs yet,guess I need to get busy.
most tractor hydraulic is SAE30...the "W" is the winter additive package, per SAE spec. The lower the "W" number, the better performance in low temperatures. But to answer the question, make sure it's tractor hydraulic that is compatible with wet brake operation.
 

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The fluid I have is CAT HYDO Hydraulic oil 10 W doesnt say anything about being we brake compatable though.. :confused:
I looked up that oil and it does not meet the specifications for final drive applications. DO NOT USE "Hydraulic" fluid in any transmission/final drive application. You must use "Hydraulic/Tractor" or "Universal Hydraulic" oil as it contains the additive packages that works well as a gear lubricant and a hydraulic fluid. Straight hydraulic fluid typically has a very small temp rating (usually -4F to 105F), if you ride in any sort of heat your rear diff will get up above 105 fast! Additionally, it is not designed for use in gears. If you only have access to CAT use the CAT MTO, this is a 30 weight hydraulic/tractor oil that meets Ford/New Holland M2C134D Specs. Hope this helps
 

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Hi, just did an oil change at 12.9 hrs (just like to change oil early in new engines). Installed the WIX filter and fit perfect, read a post on here for changing oil, had a big list of oil filter brands and part #'s, got the WIX # and had it at work in parts. Thanks for the post whoever did it, worked out perfect for me. Should try to find out the best quality filter available between the brands and post them.
 

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I've got about 6 hours on a new Teryx and am learning about the oil and filter changes here. I thought I would change the engine oil at about 10 hours (a note from the dealer said to change it at 10 hours, even though the manual clearly states 20 hours).

I caught a mention of synthetic oils, which might be better here in warm NV, but there is no specific mention of them in the owner's manual. If I used Mobile One 10W-40 (if it's rated that way), I think I'll be OKay.

I'm probably an idiot, but I can't find the oil filter!! A picture in the manual shows a picture of the driver's area with an arrow that says "filter" and another arrow that says "cover." I've not pulled any covers, but clearly there is no filter visible to me by simply looking under the driver's seat area.

So, where in the heck is the engine oil filter???
 

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There is a very good tutorial in the how to section of the board that explains with pictures how to do the oil change. The thread is located here:

http://www.teryxhq.com/forums/how-tos/588-teryx-oil-filter-change.html

That should explain it best as it has pictures. There are also a couple other threads in the How To section that explain the process as well.
 
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