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CommanderTalk.com
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I am just curious what other 840 owners are running as their operating temp. Just post them up :)
 

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I installed a racepak dash for my race teryx, I have 840 bbk with cams, 39fcr's etc. My race rig weighs 1600lbs. I can overheat it if I am not careful but normal operating temp is 200-210 degrees, stock radiator. Oil temperatures runs at about 240-260 degrees depending on load. Oil pressure runs from 20 at idle to 75 at WOT when water is at temperature.
 

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I installed a racepak dash for my race teryx, I have 840 bbk with cams, 39fcr's etc. My race rig weighs 1600lbs. I can overheat it if I am not careful but normal operating temp is 200-210 degrees, stock radiator. Oil temperatures runs at about 240-260 degrees depending on load. Oil pressure runs from 20 at idle to 75 at WOT when water is at temperature.
Do you run it in the sand or are you strictly track racing? Are you running with an external oil cooler? I have heard this may reduce the operating temp by as much as 30 degrees. This summer I want the 840 but I am concerned with overheating in the desert riding.
 

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We keep seeing these high temps on the Teryx. So we became a distributor for PWR radiators........ We all know the Teryx runs VERY HOT even stock. Installation of his PWR radiator will lower engine temps dramatically.The stock radiator is a single pass radiator that is 30mm thick. This PWR radiator is a dual pass radiator that is 42mm thick and it will also hold almost 500cc more fluid then the stock radiator. This radiator is a direct bolt in replacement for the OEM radiator. This kit will come complete with A new oversized radiator, new high flowing fan and fan shroud. We will also have a complete PWR oil cooler kit in about 4 weeks.

TERYXpwr.gif

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOU DISCOUNTED PWR RADIATOR TODAY
 

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We keep seeing these high temps on the Teryx. So we became a distributor for PWR radiators........ We all know the Teryx runs VERY HOT even stock. Installation of his PWR radiator will lower engine temps dramatically.The stock radiator is a single pass radiator that is 30mm thick. This PWR radiator is a dual pass radiator that is 42mm thick and it will also hold almost 500cc more fluid then the stock radiator. This radiator is a direct bolt in replacement for the OEM radiator. This kit will come complete with A new oversized radiator, new high flowing fan and fan shroud. We will also have a complete PWR oil cooler kit in about 4 weeks.

View attachment 1378

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOU DISCOUNTED PWR RADIATOR TODAY
I clicked on your link and no information was available for this kit on your site. What is the discounted cost for the complete kit?
 

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Did a lot of research on this cooling thing in the Teryx. Here is what is set up stock, You can actually find it in the manual. Thermostat opens at 185deg, fan switch is set for 203-208deg, warning light comes on at 232deg, give or take a few degrees on all of them. I am completely surprized that the stock radiator can keep up as long as it can. Like I said earlier I run a 1600lb race car with all the BBK and go fast stuff you can buy. I ran at dumont really hard on the sand and it took about 25-30 minutes before it couldn't keep up, it tried for a long time, never over heated.

Also I found out that idleing these things for extended periods of time is no good either, the water pump is so small that it cannot push water up hill very easily, I noticed this with my Racepak dash and where I placed my probe. Any big engine mods shut it off each time you stop.

Finally I am keeping the stock radiator, I bought a bigger SPAL fan and made a new shround and have had zero problems with cooling, the stock wimpy 8" fan that draws 5 amps is garbage.

Cheers :wave:
 

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You can actually find it in the manual. Thermostat opens at 185deg, fan switch is set for 203-208deg, warning light comes on at 232deg, give or take a few degrees on all of them.
That is one thing we tried to fix with our temp gauge kit. Once you install our temp gauge kit you can manually turn on the fan at any time. With the fan in the off position the fan will cycle as normal.

DASA RACING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP WINNING MOTORS AND SERVICE
 

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If you need the stock rad to run cooler the take the water pump cover off and mill .050 off it to pump more coolant.
Can you explain to us laymen how this will help? Also, Weller racing sells a billet high volume water pump impeller. Does anyone know if it works?
 

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Sounds like .050 is a proven number?? Anybody know how thick the stock water pump gasket is??

I got the SPAL fan on Ebay at Universal parts Inc., they have an ebay store. The fan is a 10" unit, says it draws 15amps but when I measured it on the bench is was more like 8.5-9 amps depending on load. I paid $99. The unit definitely flows way more air than stock. I trying to formalize the making of the shroud so I can share with others for a reasonable price.
 

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DesertDog615, the impellor blade in the pump has too much clearance to the housing it sits in. In the normal condition (mainly at idle) there is too much static water pressure ahead of it so it can't push it and it cavitates (circulates itself in the pump because of the excess room between the impellor and the housing). Taking away that clearance will not allow the pump to cavitate thus pushing the water up hill better. This problem only occurs when radiators are much higher than the engine, plus the length of the lines are long so the pure volume of water gets heavier. Plus it doesn't help the pump is on the bottom of the engine. In any situation on these motors anytime your above 1500-2000rpm the problem goes away so don't worry its not that big of a deal. I only noticed it because my big motor would push the temp guage way up when i was just sitting idling it and the fan wasn't coming on.
 

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DesertDog615, the impellor blade in the pump has too much clearance to the housing it sits in. In the normal condition (mainly at idle) there is too much static water pressure ahead of it so it can't push it and it cavitates (circulates itself in the pump because of the excess room between the impellor and the housing). Taking away that clearance will not allow the pump to cavitate thus pushing the water up hill better. This problem only occurs when radiators are much higher than the engine, plus the length of the lines are long so the pure volume of water gets heavier. Plus it doesn't help the pump is on the bottom of the engine. In any situation on these motors anytime your above 1500-2000rpm the problem goes away so don't worry its not that big of a deal. I only noticed it because my big motor would push the temp guage way up when i was just sitting idling it and the fan wasn't coming on.
Do you happen to know if anyone has been using a high volume impeller and if so, do they help with the flow or pumping issue? Just a thought because I have seen an impeller on the Weller racing web site and I'm wondering if it works.
 

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Has anyone ever did a back to back test on one of these rads. I did on out V-Force just to see and it didn't do a thing for the temp. I let it sit there and the fan kit on just as fast. I ran it around the same trails for the same amount of time,fast and slow and there was no difference. I don't mean to put any producys down but I hate to see someone put out money on something that has not been tested in real life.
 

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I know fuelatv has one on his car and the fan comes on ALOT LESS. We will be testing them back to back. How fast the fan comes after initial start up will have nothing to do with the radiators as the water will not even be cycling yet as the thermostat is still closed or has just barely opened.. After the thermostat opens and the coolant can cycle then the larger dual pass radiator SHOULD keep it running cooler.

DASA RACING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP WINNING MOTORS AND SERVICE
 
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