I installed a racepak dash for my race teryx, I have 840 bbk with cams, 39fcr's etc. My race rig weighs 1600lbs. I can overheat it if I am not careful but normal operating temp is 200-210 degrees, stock radiator. Oil temperatures runs at about 240-260 degrees depending on load. Oil pressure runs from 20 at idle to 75 at WOT when water is at temperature.
Do you run it in the sand or are you strictly track racing? Are you running with an external oil cooler? I have heard this may reduce the operating temp by as much as 30 degrees. This summer I want the 840 but I am concerned with overheating in the desert riding.
We keep seeing these high temps on the Teryx. So we became a distributor for PWR radiators........ We all know the Teryx runs VERY HOT even stock. Installation of his PWR radiator will lower engine temps dramatically.The stock radiator is a single pass radiator that is 30mm thick. This PWR radiator is a dual pass radiator that is 42mm thick and it will also hold almost 500cc more fluid then the stock radiator. This radiator is a direct bolt in replacement for the OEM radiator. This kit will come complete with A new oversized radiator, new high flowing fan and fan shroud. We will also have a complete PWR oil cooler kit in about 4 weeks.
We keep seeing these high temps on the Teryx. So we became a distributor for PWR radiators........ We all know the Teryx runs VERY HOT even stock. Installation of his PWR radiator will lower engine temps dramatically.The stock radiator is a single pass radiator that is 30mm thick. This PWR radiator is a dual pass radiator that is 42mm thick and it will also hold almost 500cc more fluid then the stock radiator. This radiator is a direct bolt in replacement for the OEM radiator. This kit will come complete with A new oversized radiator, new high flowing fan and fan shroud. We will also have a complete PWR oil cooler kit in about 4 weeks.
Did a lot of research on this cooling thing in the Teryx. Here is what is set up stock, You can actually find it in the manual. Thermostat opens at 185deg, fan switch is set for 203-208deg, warning light comes on at 232deg, give or take a few degrees on all of them. I am completely surprized that the stock radiator can keep up as long as it can. Like I said earlier I run a 1600lb race car with all the BBK and go fast stuff you can buy. I ran at dumont really hard on the sand and it took about 25-30 minutes before it couldn't keep up, it tried for a long time, never over heated.
Also I found out that idleing these things for extended periods of time is no good either, the water pump is so small that it cannot push water up hill very easily, I noticed this with my Racepak dash and where I placed my probe. Any big engine mods shut it off each time you stop.
Finally I am keeping the stock radiator, I bought a bigger SPAL fan and made a new shround and have had zero problems with cooling, the stock wimpy 8" fan that draws 5 amps is garbage.
You can actually find it in the manual. Thermostat opens at 185deg, fan switch is set for 203-208deg, warning light comes on at 232deg, give or take a few degrees on all of them.
That is one thing we tried to fix with our temp gauge kit. Once you install our temp gauge kit you can manually turn on the fan at any time. With the fan in the off position the fan will cycle as normal.
Sounds like .050 is a proven number?? Anybody know how thick the stock water pump gasket is??
I got the SPAL fan on Ebay at Universal parts Inc., they have an ebay store. The fan is a 10" unit, says it draws 15amps but when I measured it on the bench is was more like 8.5-9 amps depending on load. I paid $99. The unit definitely flows way more air than stock. I trying to formalize the making of the shroud so I can share with others for a reasonable price.
DesertDog615, the impellor blade in the pump has too much clearance to the housing it sits in. In the normal condition (mainly at idle) there is too much static water pressure ahead of it so it can't push it and it cavitates (circulates itself in the pump because of the excess room between the impellor and the housing). Taking away that clearance will not allow the pump to cavitate thus pushing the water up hill better. This problem only occurs when radiators are much higher than the engine, plus the length of the lines are long so the pure volume of water gets heavier. Plus it doesn't help the pump is on the bottom of the engine. In any situation on these motors anytime your above 1500-2000rpm the problem goes away so don't worry its not that big of a deal. I only noticed it because my big motor would push the temp guage way up when i was just sitting idling it and the fan wasn't coming on.
Do you happen to know if anyone has been using a high volume impeller and if so, do they help with the flow or pumping issue? Just a thought because I have seen an impeller on the Weller racing web site and I'm wondering if it works.
I know your car is very built. So i figure you have done the testing and know what it is going to take to keep these things cool. We will be running a PWR radiator and PWR oil cooler on our 840 build too.
Has anyone ever did a back to back test on one of these rads. I did on out V-Force just to see and it didn't do a thing for the temp. I let it sit there and the fan kit on just as fast. I ran it around the same trails for the same amount of time,fast and slow and there was no difference. I don't mean to put any producys down but I hate to see someone put out money on something that has not been tested in real life.
I guess this is close to my thought process as well. I have read on here that there is an issue with the water pump cavitating and struggling with pumping enough water to keep it cool. So I am wondering if it might work better to keep the stock radiator and just change out the pump impeller to a high volume. Although I do understand the added volume of fluid should help cooling as well as two passes thru the fins. I am looking for the best cooling solution before I get the 840. I want to feel confident that I am not creating a heating problem.
Mickey, By the way, what are the dimensions of the oil cooler you have in your kit?
I know fuelatv has one on his car and the fan comes on ALOT LESS. We will be testing them back to back. How fast the fan comes after initial start up will have nothing to do with the radiators as the water will not even be cycling yet as the thermostat is still closed or has just barely opened.. After the thermostat opens and the coolant can cycle then the larger dual pass radiator SHOULD keep it running cooler.
Fundy has a new high flow water pump kit.
$199 Cdn
Quote from first post of link
"It increases flow 22-26% through out the RPM range and makes a HUGE difference in engine temp.
Final testing was done on a 150HP race 800, flow was mapped from idle to 9500 RPM. One of the engine cooling effect tests we did was bringing coolant temp to 140 deg, load engine at partial throttle 70HP at 7300-7500 RPM. Rad fan unhooked and a small fan blowing on the rad constantly, basically the worst conditions possible, high load/low airflow. With the stock water pump it takes 48sec to go from 140 to 200 deg and keeps climbing. With our water pump, same conditions we never got to 200 deg, even after 90 sec temps were still in the 180 range and then going to full power at 9000-9500RPM the temps actually lowered and doesn't spike after you go to idle like the stk pump does."
I ran my 840 kit this weekend in Flagstaff with a LOT of big hill climbs.
It has a Muzzy fan, stock radiator and curve 3 on a dynatek cdi
Engine Ice in it.
It ran scary hot for me. upwards of 240 on the hill climbs (has an autometer gauge installed)
Im not sure when the dummy light comes on, or if its an aftermarket light on my dash, but it never came on.
I need an upgrade, it was cool up there. the PWR just seems so spendy with all the other goodies $650 will get you.
YUP ... COMPLETE ..... and the fan that comes with the PWR radiator is ALOT larger then the stock fan and the muzzy fan. It also comes with alot larger fan shroud too. You can feel it pulling and pushing ALOT MORE air then the stock setup.
With a PWR radiator our car runs 10 -15 degrees cooler under the same operating conditions. The fan and fan shroud that come with the PWR radiator move alot of air. I have NO DOUBT it helps keep these cars cooler. Now to check the oil temps.
Got a question,is that 10-15 with my water pump cover mod to. The reason why I ask is because just putting on the bigger rads never changed anything in my testing,it was only after making the cover mod is when they worked better.And didn't you say your heat was still going up when you were on the dyno until you did the cover mod?
I still HAVE NOT done the cover mod. Our car with the 840 and stock radiator would run about 195 - 210 degrees on the dyno all day. The with PWR it runs 180 - 190 ....... i feel a bif difference is when the fan comes on it cools the car alot better. When you let off the throttle and let it idle the temps climb to 220 very fast with either radiator installed.
It's just taking .050 to .060 off the water pump cover to get it closer to the empeller to pump better. People have told me they just did it on a belt sander. Whatever works
This past weekend was my first trip to the desert since I had the 840 kit installed. I have the PWR radiator with engine ice. I also installed a small oil cooler with a 4" spal fan, however the fan wasn't coming on. Not sure why yet. I was running about 220 when on the throttle or climbing. This seems high to me. It went down a little to 210 ish after 1 attempt at bleeding the cooling system. Isn't this 210/220 a little bit on the hot side? Just wondering what temps other guys are running with the 840 kits in the dunes? Thanks
Mine runs at about 180-200. Water wetter, pwr rad w/oil cooler. The rad is mounted in the rear and bike bike holds about 6 quarts of oil. Id post more but I broke my hand yesterday.
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