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PICTURES ARE LOCATED UNDER ILLUSTRATION

1. parts needed: go to hardware store ( i went to Lowe's and bought all black pvc) and pick up these items.
1 - 3"x2" rubber boot reducer
1 - joint of 2" pvc sch. 40 ( i used black)
2 - 2" pee traps
4 - 2" 45 degree sweep fittings ( has collar on only one side)
1 - 2"short radius elbow (90)
1 - pvc cleaner
1 - pvc glue ( i used blue one)

cost: aprrox. $25

2. Lets Begin with exhaust (belt housing)
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1. Take out both seats and place them aside.
2. take all plastics off from inside of cab/seating area and set aside.
3. Remove plastic belt housing exhaust tube by gently pulling on it and set it aside along with factory rubber boot, you will not use these again.
4. take 3x2 rubber boot reducer and (with a sharp knife) cut 1/2" off of the 2" side. next take knife and trim a bevel onto the inside edge of 3" side. ( this bevel will make it a little easier to slip onto the oval shaped housing hole).
5. this part is rather hard---slip the 3" side of rubber 3x2" rubber reducer onto the oval shaped exit port on the rear of the belt housing.
6 install band around the boot and tighten. ( you may have to put 2 bands together to be able to go around the boot)
7. insert one of the 45 degree fittings into the 2" side of the boot and roll it untill it is looking up as best as you can get it. (don't tighten band on boot yet.)
8. insert another 45 degree fitting into the one that was installed in step 7 and roll it untill it is now looking straight up. (don't glue yet)
9. cut and install a straight piece of pipe into 45. cut to desired height of water level you'd like to ride in. ( i cut mine so it would end up at height of air intake inlet)
10. install pee trap fitting (180 degree fitting) on top of straight pipe. (this will keep rain water out of your belt housing)
11. make sure seat fits and bed closes.
12. go back and glue all fittings and belt exhaust is complete.
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3. intake (belt housing)

now, i took a different route on this on account of not wanting it to be hard to get to my oil filter.

1. locate the intake on the belt housing directly under the shift.
2. loosen outside band with a small flathead and remove factory tubing. put factory tubing with rear one as you won't be using it again, however: you will use factory rubber boot.
3. insert 1 45 degree fitting into factory rubber boot and roll 45 untill it is looking toward the brake pedal. don't tighten clamp just yet
4. insert 1 45 degree fitting into the one from step 3 and adjust the 2 until the outter one is facing parallel with the front driveshaft toward the hole going under the hood area(try to keep pipe more on the driver side, away from the driveshaft). don't glue just yet
5. now insert a straight piece of pipe approx. 2ft to get you to the front hood area. don't glue just yet
6. put 2" 90 degree short radius elbow facing upward on the end of pipe. don't glue
7. cut and add a straight piece of pipe (of desired lengh of height) into elbow. don't glue
8. put 180 degree pee trap on top of straight pipe. don't glue
9. check to see if everything is out of the way of moving parts and won't interfere with anything.
10 once check is done, go back and glue everything and tighten up band on factory boot on inlet.
11. you may want to use zip ties to help hold snorkle in place.

and now you should be equipped to go in deeper water!:wave:
 

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cvt snorkel

Great write up!!!! nice job explaining this diy job... this is one of the mods i need to do cross many creeks and dont want water probs... bought a huge tube of dielectric and been slowly covering all elec. connections i run across:mad: slow process but antways thanks for the detailed work KUDOS:wave:
 

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snorkel

I just finished up my snorkel job what a royal P.I.T.A!!!!! The 3inch to 2 inch reducer was .....well lets say i invented new curse words . I spent over 3 hours on it alone. i hope this does the trick i deff need it thanks for the detailed pics that was a life saver as well, but damn that reducer lol glad its done now :yahoo:
 

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Quick tip:
Boil the 3x2 in water for a few minutes. Take it out of the water (wearing gloves) and then put it on. Goes on real easy this way. It works with a heat gun too, but this is by far the easiest way.
 

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Thanks for the write up and shopping list!!! As hunterworks said, there is an issue with volume of air now. It has been awhile since this writeup was done, has there been any ill effects of this on the belt?
 

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I don't see how there is an effect on it. The hole that goes into your belt box is 2". Not to mention the placement of your factory intake on your belt box is near the floor where there is no air moving there. If you get it up high, there is plenty of cooler fresh air for it to pull in. Just my 2cents. I could be wrong, it's happened once before.lol
 

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Thanks for all the detailed pics and shopping list. This is the best snorkel advice I've seen yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've never had an issue with this in over 2 years. Still has same setup.
 

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Just installed this set up. Looks good. I really like the the intake under the hood. Tried really hard to keep a 3" exhaust but there's just not enough room under the box to rout the pipe. I had no choice but to use the 3" to 2" reducer.

I just hope there's enough fresh are coming in from under the hood to keep the belt cooler than it would have been coming from right over the engine exhaust pipe.

Has anyone with the 3" to 2" reducer noticed excessive heat in the belt casing?
 

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The fact that you are drawing much cooler air in should make more than enough difference for the size, air under the hood should be many many degrees cooler than right over the exhaust, in the end temp in the belt housing is all that matters.
 

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Thanks for the great pics on the snorkel

Took me about 4 hours with a few breaks to get the belt housing snorkeled. It was really kida easy to do. I used a heat gun on the 3x2 reducer and it went on no problem. Im really worried about enough heat getting out the exaust though. Is the belt gonna stay cool enough with the 2" exaust opening instaed of the 3"? Thanks again from Ky.
 

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One thing about this kit that I notice being a problem is the intake under the hood. I have quite often had water that high, especially the nose. I would think that it would take in water there... correct me if I am wrong
 

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Out the back

I snorkeled my intake and exaust out behind the seats and up over the cross bars on the roll cage. I was worried it would take on water under the hood and definately get more dust and mud.
 

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One issue with the snorkel under the hood is splash form the front tires. It gets sucked right in the snorkel. I had to put a shroud around the intake snorkel. Works good now though.

Th front end does hit the water first, but I don't plan on driving in water over the hood either way.
 
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