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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I should have known better, you've all told me a hundred times. But no, I didn't do anything about it.

I just left my damned K&N air filter on and BOOM, no more toy.

So now I know, I've got to get a proper air filter mod. Fist thing.

But I've also got to redo an engine. I'm thinking of going with an 840 kit, but not quite sure what's all entailed.

When you buy a kit, does it come with everything you need? Or do you still have to pick up a cam, throttle bodies, and what ever else?

Also, I'm a reasonable backyard mechanic. I've been able to look after my Teryx pretty well for the last while and I've done a few mods my self with the tools I've got. But do you need any specialty tools to pull the motor apart and rebuild it?

I haven't really looked into this to far yet. I've just started to think about my options. So far I'm thinking Muzzy's 840, as I have a Muzzy's exhaust already anyway.

Any help, advise or input would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, if you haven't modded your air box yet.... You might want to get on that.... before it's to late!
 

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sorry to hear about your loss... there are a number of reliable kits on the market. a few are (in no particular order) DASA, FST, AMR, MUZZY, and Benchmark Performance. you will also get a hundred different opinions on whether you should go with the 840 kit or the standard bore kit. alot of the "west coast" guys ride in the deep sand of the dunes, where the 840 kit really shines. the trail type riding of the "midwest" or "east coast" guys really like the standard bore kit. the 840 will cost you a little more because of the cylinder plating that has to be done. both kits are able to be installed in your garage with some mechanical skills and the teryx manual... good luck!
 

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There is a guy in Nova Scotia that sells kits, big bore and standard...he's really good. Check him out as well, might be better since it's in Canada..shipping wise.

This is what he sent me...

Hi Chris, yes we ship our Teryx engines and engine kits all over the world.
Our 100HP std bore kits are $999 (stock Teryx is 45HP)
Our 820 and 880 big bore kits are $1042 for the kit and $710 for a set of big bore cylinders (exchange on the cylinders)
Thanks,
Ray

Truro Recreation Products
48 Ryland Ave.
Truro NS
Canada B2N 2V4
Tel: 902-893-3966
www.trurorecproducts.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You lost me with the onion sack thing.

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the different kits. Can someone provide some experience?
 

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Yes Ray is the only one that uses the crank #s so it can be very misleading to potential customers comparing other venders kits and he don't tell you any difference, with the CVT clutches you do get more accurate #s at the crank before it goes through the clutch, the problem is very few people use an engine or crank dyno so its hard to compare apples to apples, but don't know if Paul is right about the onion sack, in Canada they might have onion sacks that hold air LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I guess there's just not enough people left on this site to offer any actual insight on this subject then.

It's to bad. Teryx HQ used to be a very good source of info.
 

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There are lots of good motor builders and suppliers. Go with who you are comfortable with. Mickey used to have sales and good pricing and with a sale is hard to beat on hp per $, Glenn at AMR does good things. Besides Ray's delivery being way slower than he promises I have no issues with his work and products. I like how he is always pushing for the most hp per cc while others haven't changed anything in a long time. DASA, Benchmark Performance, UTV Unleashed, UTV Inc. Weller....... all can sell (and or build) you a good motor kit. The important thing is to talk to the supplier and get the kit for your type of riding. Are you drag racing it or is a trail rider? They need different cams. How much hp are you trying to get? Peak hp or best hp for the $. Is this a performance build or an economy build?
 

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So I guess there's just not enough people left on this site to offer any actual insight on this subject then.

It's to bad. Teryx HQ used to be a very good source of info.
There still is but we are scared to step out there on this subject. I build engines all the time, I have used Rays and AMR's and doing a DASA this week.

We have a good success ratio on builds with both kits. They do have differences and different prices too as well as different HP outputs and where they do it.
 

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Ray might use crank #'s but so does Kawasaki. The 45hp stock is a # from Kawi at the crank. So, you do get to compare Apples to apples that way. Rays kit doubles the HP for $999.

There is typically 18% loss through drivetrain, but Im sure CVT make things worse.

RWHP is hard to compare on a CVT machine. Even the temp in your shop can affect the belt grip and give misleading HP #'s.

I dont own Rays kit or any other, Im just giving my opinion as I have seen Brutes with Rays kits and they are Freakin insane. Saw an 08 brute with an 840 kit at a Sled pull event. Made my stock 650i look like a honda 300. When he hit the throttle the machine just exploded like a dog protecting his bone, lit up the 4 tires to the point of near destruction.
 

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Ray might use crank #'s but so does Kawasaki. The 45hp stock is a # from Kawi at the crank. So, you do get to compare Apples to apples that way. Rays kit doubles the HP for $999.

There is typically 18% loss through drivetrain, but Im sure CVT make things worse.

RWHP is hard to compare on a CVT machine. Even the temp in your shop can affect the belt grip and give misleading HP #'s.

I dont own Rays kit or any other, Im just giving my opinion as I have seen Brutes with Rays kits and they are Freakin insane. Saw an 08 brute with an 840 kit at a Sled pull event. Made my stock 650i look like a honda 300. When he hit the throttle the machine just exploded like a dog protecting his bone, lit up the 4 tires to the point of near destruction.
If you can get the parts.
 

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Air Filters

Just for general info here...there's been lots of studies in the industry that have show conclusively that about 85% to 90% of the contaminants that are found in engine oil...and that the oil filter has to deal with...came in through the air filter. Oil wetted, open gauze filters flow lots of air but have notoriously poor particle effciency. A standard paper filter is 3 to 5 times more effcient or you can go with somthing like the Amsoil synthetic NANO filber air filter and its 50 times more effcient plus flows just as much air

 

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Just for general info here...there's been lots of studies in the industry that have show conclusively that about 85% to 90% of the contaminants that are found in engine oil...and that the oil filter has to deal with...came in through the air filter. Oil wetted, open gauze filters flow lots of air but have notoriously poor particle effciency. A standard paper filter is 3 to 5 times more effcient or you can go with somthing like the Amsoil synthetic NANO filber air filter and its 50 times more effcient plus flows just as much air


Are you saying my Twin Air oil soaked breather is not doing what I payed it to do?
 
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