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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody done the extra breather vent in their crankcase? Would like pics and help if available. Thanks, would like some ideas...and hopefully when I get mine done I will post pics, would like a starting point though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The breather vent mod is to prevent oil entering the carbs (thru the air box), I had started this thread because I had hoped to see other different mods for this solution, so far I have instructions, pics and descriptions of two different methods. They do work, but for now I believe my modification is going to be different. The only reason you would probably(?) need this mod is if you are changing internal components, I could be wrong...but that is my idea of it. I am adding the 840cc kit presently, and for this, I will need to find another compression relief in the motor (crankcase or heads) - haven't decided where mine will be yet. This has been an ongoing situation with the V-twin from Kawasaki for quite some time as I understand. I am not for sure, and I only posted this cause of my pure ignorance of the engineering involved. Personally I believe it is best to get the compression gases out of the carbs (ie.not EPA approved), and to be a free flow escape, my opinion is that unburnt gases or any gaseous pressure should not be forced back into the carbs..(unless you live in Cali---LOL)..again this is just my opinion, and I am probably wrong...but I want to take a different approach to it, that is why I posted this.
If you are stock...or maybe with a few mods you may get the oil puke in your airbox too, and if you do...then my belief is that you need to modify just the single vent hose, as others have described what to do, and it is any easy fix too. I hope to be posting more on this subject, and I will, once I get into the internals of it.
 

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Breathers ???

I'll be following your thread for other reasons. I'm a firm believer in an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I'm trying to prepare for the day I cross water that's deeper than antisapated. Say at least 2 feet deep. The intake should be safe , but what about everythig else ? Engine , CVT , differentials , fan blade , exhaust ? I know about Snorkle Kits . But could you suck water in elsewhere ?
 

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I made an oil in the airbox video set. The first one describes the problem and the second shows how to use a Rhino siphon break on it. Drilling the head ALA FST is probably the best fix, but I did not want to do any drilling this time, so I modded the existing setup instead.

the Youtube link is in my signature.
 

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here are some pics.i'm sure micky already told you, but its a yfz box and the return tube is also from a yfz, they fit perfect when mounted this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Chase,
Yes I've got your pics. and Mickey has told me about yours and xchamps, I REALLY appreciate you guys knowledge and input on this! I believe I am going to route mine thru the top of the roll cage, mine will be different.
That being said, I have already tapped into the head in the same place yours is....it is the perfect place, right where the chains will bring the oil back down, I love that spot and in fact...it is really the only spot a person should do it. I think I will probably have a box to hold the reservoir oil in a different spot. I am also going to use a rigid tubing....I think...got it set up, just ain't got pics yet...probably won't have until get carbs set in place....that is the only factor, on deciding how I am going to run or route it, haven't got my kit yet...Mickey must be sleeping-----just kidding. Looking at your pics, what did you put around the pipe where it enters the head...is it TIG welded?
 

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I know this may not be what everyone else should do but this is what I did with my std bore kit venting issue.

I put a plug in the intake and took the hose and added about a foot more to it so I could route it inside of the bed and put a vented catch can in the bed.

The only time that it pukes any oil is when it is running WFO for a long period of time.
 

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The fitting is JB Welded in. I would suggest making sure you have clearance between the stock carb linkage cover and the fitting you use.
 

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Do you all pull your head off to drill the hole or do you just do it carefully?
It sounds bad to drill a hole with the head still on but I have done it a few times for guys that didn't do it when they had it apart. Just put a little grease on the tip of the drill bit and you won't have a problem. The fact is if you ever took one of these motors apart new you would see a lot of crap in the oil screen from the factory. The other thing is if you run the motor first and get it hot you will cure the JB weld in about 20 min. and back out riding in 30 min.:good:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am sure someone talented and patient could do it with the head on, I am neither so....I of course had the head off. I drilled out the port and tapped 1/2 inch threads in it. What I am calling the port is on the rear head ontop of the jug..where it "looks" like there should be a cam tension. I took crappy pictures to let you see what I did, I am using a 1/2 water heater bung, I have decided I am doing mine with the yfz450 oil catch can...just like Mickey says to do...don't know why I "thought" about doing it any other way...heres my crappy cell phone pics...I have finely got a digital camera...so after today my pictures...should improve...LOL.
 

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here are some pics.i'm sure micky already told you, but its a yfz box and the return tube is also from a yfz, they fit perfect when mounted this way.
Chase,
This is a bit off the subject but when I looked at your picture's I noticed that it looks like you have FCR carb's. Is this correct? If so, can you tell me what, if any was the performance improvement? Thanks
 

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Chase,
This is a bit off the subject but when I looked at your picture's I noticed that it looks like you have FCR carb's. Is this correct? If so, can you tell me what, if any was the performance improvement? Thanks
they are 39mm fcr downdraft carburators (the type used on street bikes). the carbs are great, very noticable power improvement and throttle response is excellent with the accelerator pumps. the only issue i have had with them is some momentary stumbling at wot in really rough ground. looks like i've taken care of the issues with an electric fuel pump and regulator set at 3psi, and the downdraft carbs have no type of baffling in the float bowl around the main jet so i had to carefully make some out of very thin aluminum sheet. it took a little time cause there is not much room and you have to make sure they don't touch the floats at all. these carbs rock, i would never use the stock cv again. if you are interested in getting a set and trying them i can give you some jetting specs you will need and some other setup tips. here are a couple of pics of the baffling (not good pics sorry), the regulator setup and some others of my teryx.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does the hole in the head have to be so big??? Thanks to everyone who puts input in because this site is awesome!!!
No, it doesn't...I was way over zealous on my drilling, I think the other guys said they drilled a 3/8 hole, I wanted to tap it....and I just went overboard...but should let more air thru!!!:D I just tapped the original size the hole was.
 
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