Teryx HQ banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
setting up the dalton flyweights for a modified engine in the manual says to run 2-3 less grams of weight and start with no rivet, they way i interpreted that was start with no extra weight, so thats what i did and it seems to work flawless. On the other hand Magellan says hes running all three grub screws and the alluminum rivet, and he says it works perfect on his. what is the best setup going to be or is it a matter of personal preferance .
and i think we are running the same setup :Four Stroke Tech, std bore pistons stage 2 cams, muzzy exhaust, dalton clutch kit. VDI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
I have the FST 840 kit with stage 3 cams, hope to have the dalton clutch kit finished up on Monday. Dale (helix) suggested I use the rivet and one set screw with my setup using stock size tires. I didnt install the rivet, but I did install one set screw. If I get the secondary clutch done on monday, I will give a ride report by tuesday. I was able to leave twenty foot burnouts with the stock clutch, so I cant wait to see what it does with the dalton.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
I am running essentially the same mods as you Bret and with 27" Horns. I wanted the clutch engagement point to be as low as I can so it does not jerk my wife when I take off. I wanted it to go through the clutching phase fast. If you are going for the ultimate drag racing, I think you want less weights than I am running, I wanted smooth and I have PLENTY of power now with the Std bore Kit from FST to be very happy with my setup. That is the beauty of the Dalton Clutch, adjustability. Our setups are very different, but we are both achieving what we want. I would never go back to stock, the Dalton is such an improvement, even my wife notices and comments on it. She is a NYC girl so that is impressive.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
We had just the screws in XChamp's 840 today at first ,but it was quicker and faster with out anything in the weights. It was 5mph faster in 200 feet over stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
Like Mickey said, my setup seems to work best with just the wieghts, no rivets and no set screws. My topend increased from 58 to 70!!! This is mostly because of the dalton overdrive plate. I was hitting a limiter before the clutch kit at 58, now it runs strong all the way up to 70!! The acceleration also was greatly improved, love the dalton kit, very well designed and a must for a built engine in a teryx!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
The beauty of adjustable flyweights!.

Sometimes the cc displacement,and even moreso sometimes,the camshafts in combination with that displacement can change it,not to mention the different tires and surfaces you run in ...throw all that into the mix.

We can help you get a big bore or piston and camshaft dialed in perfectly for your situation.

in general,(regarding engine kit applications)stage three's and race cams make their hp peak at a higher rpm and like to get to rpm real quick for the quickest et's....and if the cams chosen make hp at a real high rpm you must remember that a lighter flyweight will make more force when spun at high rpm than a slightly heavier one at a lower hp peak,..so the real high rpm cams usually work best with less flyweight.

stage two and trail cams,although these are still significantly higher rpm cams than stock,they like a lower rpm than stage 3 and race cams...usually like a gram or two more weight for the same given situation.

.....then you get into some personal preference,an important part of clutching sometimes. Sometimes you get someone who spends a VERY good amount of time using low range,there are some that use low range a lot...if low range is most important to you,and you may sacrifice a bit of acceleration in high,...you could set them up with more weight,and more similar to the stock engine type of set up ..to keep engine cruise rpm a slight bit lower because you are in low range so much.

The most important thing is,...you have the flexibility to do what you want with rpm,and can change to suit conditions or mods. Even if you put nitrous on one of these we could help you with baseline set ups. You are never "stuck" thinking you purchased the wrong kit or worried that you may change cams or tires,or mods ,etc later.

Glad you got it going well Xchamp!

We have had a very busy past few weeks with snowmobile season going full tilt. We just shut down now until Jan 5th. Happy New year guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
Thanks Again Helix on a great product and great service. I love the clutch kit and overdrive plate, it took the 840 to the next level!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
i tried mine with 3 screws in each weight, it lowered the shift RPM and made it a little smoother but also slowed it down drastically, i would take off just as good but 50' out it would start to shift out at a much lower rpm. anyways those weights will be coming out, i just wanted to see the difference. would the rivet in the tip have done the same thing as adding more screws in the base?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I would leave out the rivet and try just putting one set screw in each one before going back completely empty. You are always better to be a touch on the heavy side if anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
I would leave out the rivet and try just putting one set screw in each one before going back completely empty. You are always better to be a touch on the heavy side if anything.
I tried that exact setup on my 840 and it seemed to accelerate a little better and gained 2 mph on the topend with nothing in them. But Brett has the standard bore with stage 2 cams so that may work for him.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top