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Discussion Starter #1
Which Dyna curve are you using for 840's?
 

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I have not seen any maps for the dyna. Tell me what they offer. They should have one that advances 5* off bottom and then ramps up quicker to about 36* overall.
 

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From the website

Curve #1 is a mild performance curve with a little less total timing than the high performance curve.

Curve #2 is a high performance curve with the maximum amount of advance.

Curve #3 is a timing curve that would used with high compression pistons which has less total timing than either of the two above.

Curve #4 This curve is basically the same curve that is used in the Velocity Devices unit with a slight change. This curve has been tested on our Teryx and dyno and proven to add just a little more peak HP. Number #4 has been programmed by Todd at HUNTERWORKS, if it wasn't bought from there then #4 is the original stock curve.

Don't know if this helps.
 

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From the website

Curve #1 is a mild performance curve with a little less total timing than the high performance curve.

Curve #2 is a high performance curve with the maximum amount of advance.

Curve #3 is a timing curve that would used with high compression pistons which has less total timing than either of the two above.

Curve #4 This curve is basically the same curve that is used in the Velocity Devices unit with a slight change. This curve has been tested on our Teryx and dyno and proven to add just a little more peak HP.

Don't know if this helps.
Sounds like #2 was what we were running on our 4 wheel quads but #4 is what we run on XChamps
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I keep it on the HW #4 curve? Is there somewhere I can see this curve?

Thanks
 

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Sounds like #2 was what we were running on our 4 wheel quads but #4 is what we run on XChamps
FST,
I am wondering about these 840 kits you are selling. I know your Valentines day love deal was appreciated by those few guys. Are the cams/rocker arms and springs included? If not, are they required or just recommended? What added performance do you get from the cams/rocker arms & springs? It also sounds like I will need a new programmable CDI? I guess what I am looking for is the total cost of the parts required minus of course, any core charges? I don't want to do any valve or head work at this time. Thanks
 

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FST,
I am wondering about these 840 kits you are selling. I know your Valentines day love deal was appreciated by those few guys. Are the cams/rocker arms and springs included? If not, are they required or just recommended? What added performance do you get from the cams/rocker arms & springs? It also sounds like I will need a new programmable CDI? I guess what I am looking for is the total cost of the parts required minus of course, any core charges? I don't want to do any valve or head work at this time. Thanks
The kit DOES include either stage 2 or stage 3 custom ground cams and heavy duty valve springs. Stock rocker arms are fine. The cams are where the horsepower comes from. Mickey has them custom ground to his specs, they are a huge improvement over something like a Hot Cam setup. Just a regular CDI like the $180 dyna, the programable ones just give u more flexibility. Im sure mickey will add to this when he reads it.
 

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The kit DOES include either stage 2 or stage 3 custom ground cams and heavy duty valve springs. Stock rocker arms are fine. The cams are where the horsepower comes from. Mickey has them custom ground to his specs, they are a huge improvement over something like a Hot Cam setup. Just a regular CDI like the $180 dyna, the programable ones just give u more flexibility. Im sure mickey will add to this when he reads it.
Thanks for your input XChamp. I am really wanting this upgrade but there are a few options out there so I have to educate myself so I know what I buying. That should help me become a more satisfied customer. I already have a Dragonfire CDI, muzzy exhaust, hotcoils, Afe airbox. I am also looking for info on the FCR carb's setup. I think there are a couple guys on here that have them. Do you happen to know how much HP you are getting at your wheels?
 

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FST,
I am wondering about these 840 kits you are selling. I know your Valentines day love deal was appreciated by those few guys. Are the cams/rocker arms and springs included? If not, are they required or just recommended? What added performance do you get from the cams/rocker arms & springs? It also sounds like I will need a new programmable CDI? I guess what I am looking for is the total cost of the parts required minus of course, any core charges? I don't want to do any valve or head work at this time. Thanks
With the forum discount I could sell you one at $909 plus shipping. That is for the 840 pistons,stage 3 cams,valve springs and head gaskets,EXCHANGE ON THE CAMS. $300 core chage on the cams if you don't send yours in first. You get back 90% of that if you get your cores back with in 30 days.

If you want the cylinders bored and replated it's another $500 to do that and a core chage on the 2 cylinders would be $600.
 

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I was curious about the same thing-on the CDI, I currently have the non programmable CDI, I was just going to play it by "ear" so to speak on changing my CDI, after I got it back together, then see how it was.
 

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With the forum discount I could sell you one at $909 plus shipping. That is for the 840 pistons,stage 3 cams,valve springs and head gaskets,EXCHANGE ON THE CAMS. $300 core chage on the cams if you don't send yours in first. You get back 90% of that if you get your cores back with in 30 days.

If you want the cylinders bored and replated it's another $500 to do that and a core chage on the 2 cylinders would be $600.
I will be having a shop perform the labor portion of the work, so I will probably have to have them send you the cams and cylinders after they do the tear down. What is your normal turn around time if they send you the cores first? Not an issue if pay the core charge upfront. With your kit the stock rocker arms are fine? Is there anything else I need to purchase to complete this set up? Do have any experience or info with the FCR carb's?
 

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With the forum discount I could sell you one at $909 plus shipping. That is for the 840 pistons,stage 3 cams,valve springs and head gaskets,EXCHANGE ON THE CAMS. $300 core chage on the cams if you don't send yours in first. You get back 90% of that if you get your cores back with in 30 days.

If you want the cylinders bored and replated it's another $500 to do that and a core chage on the 2 cylinders would be $600.
Hey Mickey,
I forgot to ask this. what is the difference between a stage 2 & 3 cam. Also, related to the CDI, periodically I may want to run a mixture of pump gas and race gas, but never just race gas! Do I need a different cdi for this? Thanks.
 

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I almost always have everything in stock so it goes out right away. However this time of year everyone is wanting to get ready for the riding season so you never know.

Stage 2 cams have more mid range power but signs off on top. Stage 3's have good mid but kick ass on top. No rockers needed.

Half race gas isn't going to change that much as far as the cdi goes it will run cooler because of the lead.
 

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I almost always have everything in stock so it goes out right away. However this time of year everyone is wanting to get ready for the riding season so you never know.

Stage 2 cams have more mid range power but signs off on top. Stage 3's have good mid but kick ass on top. No rockers needed.

Half race gas isn't going to change that much as far as the cdi goes it will run cooler because of the lead.

Thanks for the info. Most of my riding is agressive sand trails and dunes, so I think I like the mid range power better, although I am using all the throttle in the dunes. I don't do much flat wide open driving so I don't think top speed is as important as a strong pulling mid range. I think my 0 to 40/45 mph is most important. Now, I get to 57 to 58 on long flat terrain but I want to be pinned in the seat from 0 to 45 or so and not loose must speed when climbing a sand dune. I think my top end will improve some just by the added HP's.
 

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Thanks for the info. Most of my riding is agressive sand trails and dunes, so I think I like the mid range power better, although I am using all the throttle in the dunes. I don't do much flat wide open driving so I don't think top speed is as important as a strong pulling mid range. I think my 0 to 40/45 mph is most important. Now, I get to 57 to 58 on long flat terrain but I want to be pinned in the seat from 0 to 45 or so and not loose must speed when climbing a sand dune. I think my top end will improve some just by the added HP's.
It is good to hear someone that understand what they really want. A lot of people go with the fastest no matter what, and sometimes it isn't what will work best for what kind of riding they are doing.:good:
 

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Both chase and I here in oregon, have been doing similiar things with our tuning and the FCR's. We both have the BB840 kit with stage 3 cams, hand built equal length headers. Dynatek CDI on mine VDI on his. I run the curve2 with race fuel. We both have our pilots sitting at 60 and our mains at 182, needle is lifted up 2 clips so we are 3 from the bottom of the needle. I pulled mine a couple times on the dyno last week, 68HP and 69HP with fuel mixtures in the high 12's and low 13's, ran up to 8500rpm. Pulled really hard from 4000 rpm and up.
 
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