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Discussion Starter #1
does someone have some info on exactly what kind of fitting i need to install while i have my heads off.?maybe some close pictures..thanks again.
 

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I just use some kind of 3/16 to 1/2 inch barbed fitting about a inch long or turn one down like this one in the pic so it's staight with no threads or anything on it. I grind the head a little so it lays in a groove more to the side so it clears the carbs or T/B's a little better.I drill a 1/2 inch hole down in the casted hole where it sits and JB Weld it in to place.

HEAD FITTING.jpg
 

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Do a mock up before the epoxy. Grinding the head to get more angle is a good idea. I didn't and had an issue with the fitting not having enough angle to clear the black throttle cover on the stock carbs with the hose attached. I had to clearance the plastic throttle cover with a grinder.
 

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Do a mock up before the epoxy. Grinding the head to get more angle is a good idea. I didn't and had an issue with the fitting not having enough angle to clear the black throttle cover on the stock carbs with the hose attached. I had to clearance the plastic throttle cover with a grinder.
Yea I couldn't remember if I needed to or not. Most of the heads I have been doing use FCR carbs now and they don't need to be like that. If you look at the pic on the info I send out it is off to the side but I don't think that one was moded to make it lay over further. That was a pic of Chase's off the other site.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
could i use a 90 degree fitting ?so it would clear my throttle housing..also when i drill a 1/2 inch hole i should drill it straight and let the fitting lay in the hole sideways right?just trying to get this clear before i mess something up.thanks again for everyones help.
 

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A 90* might work, but you need to check it first before epoxy. A straight barb fitting will work fine if you grind the head so you can lay it over like in FST's pic.

After drilling the hole and setting the fitting in place just make sure the passage is clear of any epoxy.
 

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Just another option... you can tap it with I believe a 3/4 npt and get a propane type of 90 to work. It takes a little effort to try and locate a 90 that is the right lenght, but then you can always go back and put a plug in if you decide to do something different later (can't imagine why, but it's an option). Note, there's not a lot of threads there when you do it.

We've got it back together, but still haven't done a break in on the bbk. waiting on some larger main jets, then we'll start running.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You could do what sandjunkie did, he got one of our michael fittings and then used the yfz can.

One guy who used our STOP kit on his 840 said he didn't have issues with it but we have not tested it.

Todd
i know you offer a kit todd but it isnt proven on a 840 right?while im into doing the rebuild on mine i am going to fix it with what is a known fix for my application.like my daddy always used to say..[if you dont have time to do it right the first time..will you have time to do it a second time.]:D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well who had the 840 that it didnt work on?thats what i was afraid of happening to me.and then i would have to take it apart again and do the drill tap and glue method.so it would work right.i like your idea and would use it if it was proven.
 

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I drilled & tapped mine just to have it available and avoid having to take it apart if necessary later, but was interested in trying the fitting and just plugging the head.

Would have liked to try the HW fitting with the yzf box which I think may be better (just mho). the fitting isn't listed as available forsale and it just didn't work out for me... I do like the idea of the fitting with the yzf for those who haven't got their head off to tap.

But if you have the head off doing an 840kit, it just seems reasonable to spend a little energy drilling the head so that you don't have to back into it later (until you upgrade the heads :)) I'm not aware of any real downside to drilling the head and tapping the opening. I certainly could be wrong.

Lots of ways to get there though.
 

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I am not aware of anyone who used it with a 840 and didn't work. We have sold a good many and I have no idea what people are using them on.


Outside what I have installed I only know of Sandjunkie and someone else on here or e-mail told me they used the complete STOP kit on a 840 and didn't have issues.

I would not guarentee it since I have not done it myself. Next week I will have it tested on a Fundy 820 though
 

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I didn't but someone else did and sandjunkie just used the fitting instead of having to drill, tap glue etc.
Todd,
I think i'm the guy your talking about. I emailed and reported on my FST 840 with your STOP kit. I run it in the dunes and am in the gas alot. So far we have not had an oil problem. I tried the yfz box and did have an issue but the breather was only 3/8 i.d., i feel that the yfz box openings are to restrictive comparred to the larger opening of the 400ex oil overflow tank. Just for the record the FST 840 runs like a beast and is reasonably priced. Good job to bothh Mickey and Todd. Keep up the good work.:smiley_flag:
 
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