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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone came up with a gas gauge for the Teryx that would be easy to install? Is it possible that the gauge off a Prairie or Brute Force would work? Just some ideas to throw out there.
 

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Hmmm I am not sure if that would work or how accurate it would be, however, never hurts to give it a try and report back. It is surely easier to install than a gauge ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I figure as soon as I install something Kawasaki will put the Teryx out with a gauge. I like the idea of something that just replaces the gas cap, its not like it has to be that accurate.
 

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Keep an eye on the 2009 Teryx ;)
 

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I have the parts to put a gauge in this weekend. I'll post pictures. Using a Hardin-Marine fuel sender (not float, used in boats for more stability) and an autometer carbon fiber gauge. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to do...I'll keep you posted. Oh, my cost into this is about $90.
 

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Diesel - how accurate is the gauge. AZ - keep us informed on how that works out. If the gauge shows empty but you still have a quarter of a tank, like some gauages I've seen, I can do without that. But I'd like something, since I almost ran out of fuel the other day. I've been using the trip meter....but I'm idling quite a bit....going slow with ranch work etc....and after 57 miles or so...I checked the tank. I was surprised that I hadn't ran out...it was that low.
 

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I have the parts to put a gauge in this weekend. I'll post pictures. Using a Hardin-Marine fuel sender (not float, used in boats for more stability) and an autometer carbon fiber gauge. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to do...I'll keep you posted. Oh, my cost into this is about $90.
Keep a list of parts and post them in the how to section! That's a lot better price than the retail option from Black Rhino!
 

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Diesel - how accurate is the gauge. AZ - keep us informed on how that works out. If the gauge shows empty but you still have a quarter of a tank, like some gauages I've seen, I can do without that. But I'd like something, since I almost ran out of fuel the other day. I've been using the trip meter....but I'm idling quite a bit....going slow with ranch work etc....and after 57 miles or so...I checked the tank. I was surprised that I hadn't ran out...it was that low.
This is a capacitive gauge. Inner tube acts as electrode against outer tube. Fuel provides the conductor. The less fuel the less conductive; 33/220 Ohms sender. I bought the 12" long sender, the Teryx tank is around 9 1/2", so you can cut the sender to length. I'll cut it about 1/8" to 1/4" off the bottom to keep "sludge" out of the sender. I bought some marine epoxy that is non-corrosive to gasoline, so this will keep the sender in place. The gauge will be mounted just left and up from the choke. The sender can be calibrated for empty and full so once in place (in the empty tank), I'll adjust for empty. Then fill the tank and adjust for full. Should work fine...should being the key word! I liked the carbon fiber look in the dash as well as the stainless ring and it comes with both an amber or blue bulb for illumination.

You'll need to install a 4A, 3AG fast acting fuse between the ignition and the gauge...
 

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Looks good, appears to be the same sending unit I have. I still need to calibrate mine though ;)
 

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It appears to be the sending unit to use as the sloshing around of the fuel does not jack everything up.

As soon as we remove the cage again, then I can get access to the gauge and calibrate it.
 

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This sending unit is more accurate than the float style. The pot's are on the sending unit, at least mine are...You pull the unit out of the tank and adjust the gauge for just at empty...then put the sending unit back in and adjust for full. Should at least get you in the ballpark of where you stand fuel wise.
 

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Yup that is the same sending unit I have.

I need to get everything dialed in, but once it is, I think it is going to be quite accurate!
 

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It is the same sending unit that I got from Trail Armor. I have been using mine for around a month. It works well and the sloshing does not effect it that much. You will notice the gauge needle bouncing a little, but it only moves around a 16th of an inch or so. My sending unit came in at 12" long. I cut around 3/8" off of it. This made it about a 1/8 to 1/4" above the bottom of the tank. I usually fill up when it gets to the 1/4 tank mark, but if it hits "E", I still have a little gas left since the sender is not all the way at the bottom of the tank. It took about 2 hours to install. The guage has a light in it, that I attached to the wire that lights up the digital dash. That way, with the lights off, you can press the brake peddle and the gauge light will come on. It also works with the light switch. I think this was a pink and white wire coming from the digital dash. The guage positive wire was attached to a brown wire under the hood that energizes when the key is turned on. I installed mine to the left of the choke knob, but if you have a really deap guage, you may have to install it a little lower. I had to cut the threads on the back of the guage where to wires attach to make clearance for the cross member that runs under the hood. I will look for my pictures and post later. Don't drill the hole in the dash until you know that the gauge will fit in that location.
 

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I also have the 12" sender, cut it to 10.75", which is about 1/4" off the bottom of the tank. I attached my gauge light to the Hi/Low light switch, I do like the idea of the signal on the brake, next one! Mine is mounted just left of the choke and YES this is very tight clearance! But you can easily read the gauge in this position. The autometer gauge is pretty deep and just fits. I'm looking to get about a 1/4" - 1/2" spacer to pull the gauge out some on the dash. Overall took about 4 hours to install (I pulled the gas tank out) and I only had one spare screw left! I'll post some pics up later
 

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Here are the photos of mine. The clearance is very tight due to the tube behind the dash. I had to cut the treads short on the gauge so the connections would not short out on the tube. The clearance is better in a lower position on the dash, but the gauge is easier to read up high.
 

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