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Hunterworks going with Fundy standard Bore

60K views 205 replies 31 participants last post by  jaketruck 
#1 ·
I'm convinced that for what most people want to do a standard bore kit from Fundy is the way to go, they are making 15 to 20 hp more than most 840 kits.

840 Kits are held back by carbs, intakes, heads and exhaust kinda corking them up. Yes you get a nice gain but more can be had, less trouble and less money. Sure you can uncork it but heck then you got about $4000 tied up in the mod and you then will only barely outrun the standard bore kit.

Another issue with 840 kits are warped cylinders because they are so thin plus the heat.

When you can make a reliable 90 crank HP and 65 HP at wheels you are doing something.

We are going to install a Fundy standard bore kit in a 08 Teryx and get a good set up and then do a 09 and map it on the forth coming MSD ignition/fuel controller for those want to just plug and play when the MSD comes out.

I would have loved to do our own kit but Ray at Fundy is hard to beat so no need in beating a dead horse. Our part will be the set up on fuel and ignition, exhaust etc so you get a complete set up with no worry about compatibility issues and it just plain hauls butt!!

Todd
 
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#3 ·
standerd bore

Glad to see todd Iv got mine running good now. 160 dj and 165 dj 4 tpi valves and a k&n inside the airbox. I can play with the 4 tpi valve but normaly run with 3 open. 65mph with a GPS with stock 26" tires at 9200 RPM then hits the rev limiter. I had some over heating problems running it hard, but installed a pwr rad and and the new updated fan. It still ran a little hot so I tried some evens NPG+ and it really works and will not boil. I found it to run 15 deg cooler and now its all I can do to get the temp up to 210F running as hard as i can. I can spank a 1000 prowler by 7 car lenths before 65mph and it comes out of the hole like shotgun 4 cars by 30 mph. I took some tip weight off my dalton primary arms because my mud tires are 28" mudlits and needed more rpm It would even pull harder with more tip weight.I have 4 months of testing different combos so let me know what you end up with.

Chris
 
#4 ·
todd...the standard bore kits are making 15 to 20 more hp that the 840 bbk's????
 
#5 ·
OK Todd you are going to need to back up a bit.To start with how many 840's have you seen run vs a std bore?. How many cylinders have you seen warp. The answer is zero. I have sold over 300 840's and not one problem with any of them,fact! Yes there is alot more power to be had with porting ,carbs ect.I DON'T KNOW WHAT YOUR PROBLEM IS WITH ME BUT YOU NEED TO GET OVER IT. I have never did anything to you but we have already had that talk. You have not even run a 840 against a std bore. You are going by Ray's word on this and I can tell you fist hand Ray and his HP numbers a hyped up to sell parts. You should really watch what you repeat because it will backfire on you, just like it has with Fundy.I can't even believe you even say stuff like this with out first hand knowledge.Yes the std bores run good but these things take torque to move them,even more so then a quad. HP numbers don't tell the whole story. I have seen numbers all over the place with my own kits,this is why I don't like quoting HP numbers. I know it sells parts, ie why Fundy has always quoted them. It's also been his down fall because after a customer gets back from the dynos they a very disapointed. Don't let this be your down fall too,you are better then that. Please don't go round about this with me,no good will come of it,just stick to what you know for a fact your self.
 
#6 ·
Four Stroke,

I got no problem with you and I won't do whatever you are trying to do here. This has nothing to do with you or four stroke tech.

I think I am allowed to form my own opinion and work with who I want to. Besides I didn't say anything about Four Stroke Tech.

I do standard bore in my rhino too and it has won two championships. I personally like standard bore kits. I like spending the least you have to to accomplish the goal.

Everyone else stay tuned to the work, will post as we go.

Todd
 
#11 ·
Please don't play games,you know what you are doing. It don't matter who's 840 kit you are talking about you are wrong in everything you said about them with no facts of your own to back up what you said. I don't care if you go with the over priced Fundy kits they run about the same as mine after all that's where Fundy started,selling my stuff. You could have made a post about your new project and never said anything about 840 kits. You know we had a little talk through PM's where you think I put you down, don't do this kind of stuff and play your games. Just give out good first hand info that you know for a fact. Again repeating someone else finds when you don't know them to be true or not will only make you look foolish.
 
#9 ·
standerd bore

Anyone got a 840 in alberta canada??? I can see a race comming on!!! will drive up to 4hrs to meet up and race to put this to bed. Fundy standerd bore vs fst 840bb. Any takers???? 780-963-6134 Chris.
 
#14 ·
Settle down,you want him to keep giving good info,right. That's what it's about to me,he simply gave out second hand info that is wrong. And yes there is a little beef he has with me and IMO this is a dig at me. Who else sells 840 kit? I'll let my kits speak for them selves.

Have you ever heard of a 840 having warped cylinders.NO!

Have you ever heard of a std bore out running a 840. NO!

No one is perfect,we all have our little problems. Todd has a little problem with me and he admitted it when I tried to take care of it in PM's. I can post it up if you want me to.
 
#15 ·
I'm sorry, I should also add 800, 820, 900 and 1000 kits too. Should not have singled 840 kits out but it seems the most talked about.

There are a bunch of new kits and most good I'm sure.

Again I like the standard bore stuff.

Heck you get a nice gain out of some standard bore wiseco pistons and hot cams, it depends on what your goals are.

Mine are a good gain without having to spend the money to bore, carbs, head work etc.

Example: One particular company advertised 62mph on a rhino 700 and they are great company but the parts needed was about $3000 to do it which included head work. Our race Rhino with about $1800 worth of mods ran 68 corrected via GPS 65 and got there quickly.

I have always said there are people who want the most they can get no matter what the cost but they are not the people who we cater to.

It is only a small percentage of UTV owners who will go internal of engine and even smaller percentage who want to spend $4000 on going all the way.

I'm against stroking one too.

Mickey, I don't have a problem with you. You explained what you said, I'm ok with that. Again this has nothing to do with you or Four Stroke Tech.
 
#17 ·
Todd are you going to test a 800,820,840,900,1000 kit against your Stb kit or are you taking others word for it that you will have a better machine? I agree the 840 kit is the most talked about and there are a few of us interested in your findings. I tend to lean towards the 840 kit just for the torque numbers but would like to see what you find?
 
#18 ·
I hope I dont add fuel to the fire here, but I know Todd, you take pride in testing a product before you promoted it or sold it. In this case you are going soley off of Rays word, which I and alot of people have heard over and over again, and not your own findings. It would be next to impossible test his st. bore against every engine kit out there, but in the same sense there are ALOT of very satisified 840 owners out there with NO issues! For you to state of the problems out there with 840 kits is not true and not like you. The 840 is great gains just with pistons and cams, you dont need bigger carts, porting and so forth to have great performance. Sure bigger carbs and porting will give you more, personally for woods riding i wouldnt want anymore than just a 840 with stock carbs and porting. For dunes or desert riding, yeah I would want more. The 840 resoponds better to those additional mods than a st. bore would. And as far as bang for the buck, the four stoke tech kits are the best deal out there!!
 
#20 ·
And that is what I was saying. I happen to know there was more to this so I made it known,simple as that. Everyone knows Todd tests everything and knows what he is talking about before he says so,and this didn't pass the smell test.

Nothing else needs to be said other then if anyone wishes to know the difference in the products,service,performance or cost we can talk about all that anytime you are ready.
 
#21 ·
you know, its not real comforting to see all you vendors in a pissing match like regular members. i personally expect a vendor to take the high road. i almost never see anything but positive reports on FTS, UTVCrap, and Hunterworks. I realize no one likes their product or work to be trown off on, but as a vendor it happens. How about Todd use his magazine connection and get together a nice shoot out with ALL the mod motor kits.
 
#23 ·
I'm not participating in a pissing match, learned my lesson.

I'm trying to be as respectful as I can be, I know more than I am letting on about some of this and less on other things.

At the end of the day I like standard bore kits period for cost regardless who makes them.

Take the possible warping and heat out of the equation, I still like standard bore kits.

I have other reasons for going with Fundy which has nothing to do with what Mickey thinks.

Mickey thinks I am pissed at him for something I misunderstood that he said on here. I was then, he explained then it was water under the bridge. End of subject.

I have other reasons for going with Fundy that I won't make public.

Last time I checked this is still the good ole US of A and we have choices.

If I have to eat crow later, I will. Pride does not get in my way.
 
#22 · (Edited)
IMO .... if you are keeping the heads and carbs/throttle bodies stock a standard bore or 800 kit might be best. Not for heat issues though. We researched everywhere and saw NO WARPING issues with the 840 kits. It is just like everything out there. Each person will want something different for what they are doing. I would not hesitate to put ANYONE in an 840.

AS FAR AS TESTING GOES ....... the only real way would to be to use the same car. Then do dyno runs with each kit installed on it. Plus each kit would have to be tuned correctly on the dyno. Then multiple runs to get peak hp and torque numbers. Plus you could do say 0 - 60 timed runs on the dyno. So this could happen, but i highly doubt it. It woudl take a MASSIVE amount of dyno time and work. Plus you would have to have every kit there ready to go. There are WAY TOO MANY variables to factor in by installing each kit on a different car and they driving them. Yeah it would be cool, but far from the correct info.

DASA RACING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP WINNING MOTORS AND SERVICE
 
#27 ·
Thats OK, somethings go over my head even being over 6 feet tall. I like the jokes on the site. Its hard to gauge expressions and moods when its in type sometimes though.

Back on topic.

Hunterworks are you going to Dyno it when its all done with the MSD ignition set up?
 
#29 ·
I have a question...shallow as it may be. I have visited with Mickey and I purchased an 840. I'm excited about it too. Here's the question...I know and well understand that I will want to run a good exhaust. I don't have the dough RIGHT now though.(sunk my cart..ruined the motor). Mickey thought the kit WOULD work with stock exhaust...but how well, he wasn't sure. Fair enough. But of all the testing everyone does, how bout checking a kit like this or even standard bore with the stock exhaust? Just for kicks. Then when someone like me who is only building because I HAD too calls, you could say "Actually we tested that and here is what you can expect"
08 teryx le
afe intake
dynojet jet kit
hot coils
I hope this might help clear the air.....You guys are all part of a great and useful tool(this forum) for all us little guys out here. Your expertise and knowledge are and invaluable resource. Your diversity and willingness to discuss that helps even more. Thanks.
 
#31 ·
That's a good subject, but what you will find in a kit such as a off the shelf piston kit from Wiseco and say a set of hot cams is, not much! You can't do much with a stock pipe and think you are going to get a good power gain for your money. Then because with the mild cams you don't run valve spring and that in it's self cause more problems. Even guys that just go a pipe,CDI,air box or mod. and a jet kit they find that the valve need adjusted more because the stock valve spring don't have enough seat pressure to hold the valves on the seats and the bounce when the hit the seats. This make it wear out way faster with the higher RPM's you get with the mods.So back to a cheeper kit,you could go with a Web 150I cam,WISECO STD pistons(not true 11.5:1's like they are called) and a set of 400ex valve springs from Honda. The 400ex valve springs are a little cheeper and have both inner and outer springs needed,but they will not handle much lift. This would make a safe kit that will run OK with a stock pipe.

Now if you ask anyone over on KAWIERIDERS.COM if you should buy something like that,most are going to tell you it's not worth it and you should go with a proven builders kit so you get the best power for your money, and I'm sorry but that is not a kit bought in the US,sent to Canada and bought again in the US.There is no way to get the best kit at the best price that way.
 
#34 ·
So do I need valve springs for the fst 840 kit? Maybe it came with them...I didn't see it as I had you ship it to Hobbytime. If I need them let me know cause I don't think they have gotten it together yet. Also, is headwork necessary? I have seen conflicting opinions on that.
 
#37 ·
Cool. I am planning on putting a set of dasa pipes on. He is supposed to be ready with numbers on quiet core options on the 29th. Can't wait. They are great to talk with and I'm sure one of their combinations will be perfect for us.
 
#38 ·
Hey guys, someone told me to have a look at this post so I did.
As far as std bore vrs 840 goes, yes with stk heads and carbs the std bore is better not even a question on that. Now I'm not even talking about anyone else's 840 kits, even ours thats why we discontinued our 840 kit years ago.
Heres how it goes, all with stk heads and carbs, Muzzy, Dyna or VDI, K&N and moded airbox.
Our std bore Ultimate Trail/Race kit 100HP at 8300-8500RPM
Our 800 Ultimate Trail/Race kit 100HP at 8100-8200RPM
Our 820 Ultimate Trail/Race kit 100HP at 7800-7900RPM
Our 840 Ultimate Trail/Race kit 94HP at 7400-7500RPM
Thats all with the same cams, the stock heads and carbs just won't supply the mass airflow for that much displacement so you start going backwards.
Now with bigger carbs and stk heads, our std bore, 800 and 820 all make 108-110HP but the 840 still falls behind at 102-103HP.
Now port the heads and +1 or +1.5mm valves with 39FCR's.
Now the std bore makes upto 125-130HP at 11,000RPM
800 is 125-130HP at 10,200
820 is 125-130HP at 9800-10,000
840 gets pretty close to the 820 on HP but still gives up 200RPM.
If you go race heads, with +4 and +5mm valves, then the 840 is better, but now you have the mass airflow for 880, 900 bib bore or 1000.
The other down side of the 840 is, if you just bore and plate, you only have 2.5mm of aluminum sleeve thickness and yes they distort. Again, not knocking anyones kits as we did them as well years ago and ours did too.
I thought it was only bigger HP motors that had that problem as we only did 840's on full blown race motors but we have had many 840 cylinders come in as cores on std bore to 820 kits and they were are all out of round. We even had a set of 840 cylinders from a really low performance 840 kit (I won't meantion any names, Mickey you know who I am talking about, one of the basically off the shelf small vavle relief pistons kits) that had low hours on it.
Those cylinders had as tights as .0004" clearance and as loose as .0058. Probably started with .0025" a few months ago.
Ray
 
#39 ·
I was waiting for this because Mr. Hunterworks doesn't know anything about this first hand,he can only go by what you say.

First off you will have a very hard time on the Teryx sites convincing 100's of FST 840 owners that there cylinders are warped.Not one person has ever had a problem of any kind what so ever.This kind of BS is like when you told everyone you broke not 1 but 2 stock steal valve spring retainers,and therefore my valve spring kits were junk. The thing is now we have sold close to 700 sets of the junk valve spring kit and not 1 valve retainer has ever broke.:confused:Now not only do I still sell them,but so does AMR and a few other builders in the NC,SC,MO and LA areas. You can have your opion on something and that is fine but when the facts backed up with real life proof it kind of flys in your face. Now we all know you are in love with Dyno numbers and you use them to sell your products. and that is fine to a point.You and I and most everyone on KAWIERIDERS.COM have gone round and round about your inflated dyno number. Those days are past now and there have been way too many people that found out the hard way that they just were not true when the motors were put on the dynos down here. I now know that your dyno dose not read right because I spent $33,000 on the same brand dynos. Mine lined up with all the DYNOJET dynos run by differant people around the county, give or that a few HP.

Putting that all a side I do agree with you about the STD vs 840 HP some what. But here is what matters in the real world. You give 2 people the same mods on a std bore and a 840 and they will go with the 840 everytime unless it's too much for them in the woods. Get your head out of the drag racce cloud and find out what these guy really like.
 
#48 ·
MINIMUS on KR's right now just dynoed his std bore Fundy 750 Brute with 39mm carbs. Here is what he has to say:

A little disappointed in the number on all motor but the A/F was high 13's at peak HP Temperature was 96 degrees. Dyno was in Phoenix at 1435 feet elevation not sea level. Any consolation I watched a ported and piped FI 700 raptor make the exact same hp after tuning the fuel injection for over an hour.

Mine they only did the two runs one all motor and one on nos. 8 hour drive round trip for a 20 minute dyno. That's all I wanted so they did no tuning being the huge elevation difference where I ride.

The nos makes decent HP.
Nos RED 75 rwhp, All Motor Green 55 rwhp,
Attached Images
 
#55 ·
Perfect point Mickey, Minimus, yes his motor only showed 55RWHP on that chassis dyno. but has he ever said he was not happy with the performance, no. In fact he has one fast Brute force and even with a big heavy 4x4 he still beat alot of the lighter V forces with 730, 800 and 840 kits.
Again, big low RPM gives big chassis dyno numbers, big higher RPM power makes you fast. You already know this as you posted after you did some engine dyno to chassis dyno testing.
Thanks,
Ray
 
#49 ·
I feel compelled to say something since I brought this up.

There are other reasons to buy something from one place over another.

DynoRay, I appreciate the way you try to take the high road and not get ugly.

I will be ordering that kit first of week for the 08 so we will be finding out firsthand what it will do and I won't pull punches because it is what it is. We have a reputation for not pulling punches and calling a spade a spade.

The fact that we only know what Ray told us is exactly why we are not doing these kits ourselves. In this particular situation we are better equipped to take the work from someone who has dedicated his time to do only this kind of work then install it ourselves, get a set up that works with it and then sell it as a complete package. I mean the set up as well as the kit.

When we do the 09 model then we can sell a package that includes the new MSD that is pre-mapped for the kit.

Another company to look at is Muzzy, they have some nice new stuff for the Teryx especially the 09 model with their new throttle bodies.

I have always said you should find a company you are comfortable with when you are buying products regardless what those are and I am comfortable with Fundy and Ray himself.

This has no bearing on Mickey at all, I'm sure he knows what he is talking about and sells good stuff.
 
#50 ·
My question based on what you have seen do you think you will get 15 to 20 more HP then a 840? I mean this was one of your reasons for going with the std bore. Forget all that stuff about warping.I'm sure someone over heated an 840 or two somewhere,but I have a pile of used stock cylinders that are junk too,that's why we do so many 840's.There isn't a problem with any size motor until you have a problem,ie mud in the rad,low on oil. This is like saying Kawasaki cranks are junk. I get 10 calls a week on cranks going bad,and that's a fact. They all had a problem,running low on oil or sucking mud and water in. This all started because you guys saying there is a problem with 840's and you make more HP with a std. Now either all the customers with 840's are afraid to call me if they had a problem,or Ray is full of it because not one person has ever called me. On top of that Mr. Muzzy must be wrong along with Weller and all the others and Ray is the only one that has seen this. He's the only one in the world that had valve retainer break. Do you understand why I said this to you,you are getting yourself in a bad place beleiving this when every facts tell you differant. I look forwards to your numbers,they will be under 100% gain, mark my words unless you go with porting or some other mod then just bolting on a std bore kit.
 
#51 ·
Just so everyone knows I am not against std bore kits, I sell them to as you all know,$850 retail $765 members price. When we talk about what you want and what type of driving you are doing then you make the decision of what you want. It's just most of you want 840's and I agree:D

Some people go with the 840s only because like I said before their cylinders are bad,but even then I offer good used cylinders for $100 exchange when I have them in stock and I haven't already sent them out to be renicasiled to a 840 or 900.

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