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Discussion Starter #1
Got my UNI today and modified the airbox to mount it. My question is, what is the best way to oil and clean it? I have a UNI in my Kodiak 400 and Kingquad 700, but the foam element slides off the cylinder base. The one I got today is a sealed unit, the ends are glued onto the foam filter.

I use oil in a bottle for the quads, pour it on, then squeeze out the excess like wringing out a washcloth, but it looks to be pretty tough to get the excess out of the one I got today. Do you guys use spray filter oil? Either way, it looks like it would be kind of a beotch get the extra oil out. I haven't oiled it yet, just to see what you guys (Todd) may recommend. It looks like a MUCH better setup than the K&N the previous owner installed that let fine dust through.

Also, what's that little stud hanging off the back for? Some other application?
 

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I use the spray cleaner and spray on oil (PJ 1) that Michaels Cycle sells ... it works well. Spray the cleaner on the outside and shoot some on the inside, let it sit for a few minutes, then hose it off. Let it dry and then oil. You can use the pour on type, but it sure uses lots of oil that way. You might be able to find the stuff at Renners Equipment, Tuu Brothers or that off road shop East of town.

That stud is for a different application ... ignore it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that off road shop is EMR (Evans Motorsports). I will be taking my Teryx to them in the next couple of days to have them do a motor swap for me and will see if they have the spray on oil and cleaner.

The reason I use the bottled oil on the quads is you get a lot more for the same price over the aerosol. Plus you can squeeze out the excess back into the bottle. But that is obviously not the case with the sealed type I now have for the Teryx.
 

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Have never been in their shop, even drove past it today, but really want to know how they do with your Teryx. You might even find that spray foam filter oil at Wally World or NAPA.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I went by there today and picked up an aerosol can of UNI spray oil. Will be taking the Teryx into Jeremy, the owner, Thursday to do the engine swap. I haven't had a whole lot done there, but he has always been straight up with me, never trying to rape me for stuff my quads didn't need. His rate is $60 an hour which isn't bad. He is ALWAYS busy with all kinds of quads and side by sides. I have also dealt with TuBrothers and have had great service from them, but they just don't have the room for a SxS, their shop is always filled with bikes and a few quads.

I would do the swap myself, but with a bad shoulder, I just don't want to mess with it. I think I'm the only one in Fallon with a Teryx, Rangers and Razrs are everywhere.
 

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That hourly rate is a good deal. Is it a stock motor or a big-bore that you are installing?

There are two Teryx's here in Silver Springs that I know of (including mine). Several Rhino's, Rangers and a couple Rzr's. One neighbor has a Commander, but never seen it out of his garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's an '09 1200 mile stocker with some minor tweaks. The guy I got it from in Placerville, Ca, is putting in an 840 which is why he sold it to me. It has a Dasa clutch cover I will have Jeremy remove and put the stock one off my 2010. I would keep it on, but want the engine breaking feature as I go up in the mountains around here and prefer to have it. Since I bought this thing with a bad thrashing tranny from my neighbor a few weeks ago, I have only put barely 1 mile on it and BLM is my backyard, so I'm itching to get it running. It only had 190 miles on it when his 30 year old kid blew a gear in it.

It has brand new 27" Bighorns on it and a hardtop I put on. Besides that, it will be mostly stock, at least for now.
 

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Got my UNI today and modified the airbox to mount it. My question is, what is the best way to oil and clean it? I have a UNI in my Kodiak 400 and Kingquad 700, but the foam element slides off the cylinder base. The one I got today is a sealed unit, the ends are glued onto the foam filter.

I use oil in a bottle for the quads, pour it on, then squeeze out the excess like wringing out a washcloth, but it looks to be pretty tough to get the excess out of the one I got today. Do you guys use spray filter oil? Either way, it looks like it would be kind of a beotch get the extra oil out. I haven't oiled it yet, just to see what you guys (Todd) may recommend. It looks like a MUCH better setup than the K&N the previous owner installed that let fine dust through.

Also, what's that little stud hanging off the back for? Some other application?
I am drawing a blank sitting in my recliner but I think there is a spring inside the filter you can remove to squeeze it out. I normally just spray the oil on the outside and some on the inside and not squeeze in.

The screw is for a automotive application no use to us.

Todd
 

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I think staying with the stock engine is a good idea unless you are going to hit Sand Mountain. Mine is set up for the trails also. Running the high volume fan, high volume water pump, Uni-Kit, Plenum Rings and other goodies focused on reliability and safety. We hit the trails for mining towns/camps, railroad camps or just to look over the next mountain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think staying with the stock engine is a good idea unless you are going to hit Sand Mountain. Mine is set up for the trails also. Running the high volume fan, high volume water pump, Uni-Kit, Plenum Rings and other goodies focused on reliability and safety. We hit the trails for mining towns/camps, railroad camps or just to look over the next mountain.
Forgot to mention this engine that will be going in also has a Dasa water pump impeller. What are plenum rings?
Yep, I am into mountain trails, ghost towns and just regular desert stuff. Did the Sand Mountain thing for a while when I had a sport quad but have no desire to do it on my Kingquad 700 or the Teryx.

I ride with the Eagle Riders here in Fallon, but have always done it on my quad. The last ride I did with them was a 3 day deal down in Mina, below Hawthorne. Most of the group had side by sides, and it was hot. I was roasting on those 9 hour rides with absolutely no shade. Thats when I decided to get something with a roof!. :p
 

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On the Carbed 08 version there is an air plenum between the air cleaner box and the carbs. That plenum uses hose clamps on plastic ports to the carbs and are prone to distortion or popping off allowing pure dust into the carbs. The plenum rings are machined aluminum rings that slide into those ports giving the hose clamp something to bite into ... stopping the sucking of dust straight into the engine. Dasa Racing and UTVCrap offer them. Don't know if the FI models need them or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ahh, ok and yes, my 2010 has the same type of plenum. In fact, when I pulled the air cleaner box off, I noticed fine dust in that plenum area, which is why I got the UNI. The K&N was letting it through and into the engine. Not saying it is purely the K&N's fault, just the friction design of the factory style filter lends itself to leakage.

We should hook up sometime and go for a ride. I could use some advice with these machines.
 

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You can get the plenum rings from Dasa Racing or UTVcrap. Don't know if Todd carries them or not. One supplier charges way too much for freight so watch the freight charges ;-)

Would love to hook-up for a ride sometime!
 

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Ahh, ok and yes, my 2010 has the same type of plenum. In fact, when I pulled the air cleaner box off, I noticed fine dust in that plenum area, which is why I got the UNI. The K&N was letting it through and into the engine. Not saying it is purely the K&N's fault, just the friction design of the factory style filter lends itself to leakage.

We should hook up sometime and go for a ride. I could use some advice with these machines.
Have you considered checking the belt before stuffing the new engine in? Might be easier to replace or adjust it now, if needed, while that engine is on a table.

Bought my severe duty belt from Todd along with the tools to swap it out. I bought the tools should you want to borrow instead of buying them for a belt change.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep, already got a severe duty belt for it and thanks for the tool offer. I assume EMR will have it, if not, I may give you a shout.
 

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With my last belt change I left the thin shim out from the start (suggestion from Todd). The Teryx seems to be lower geared at this point and I like that for my kind of riding. That lower gearing will change as the belt wears, but it sure is nice for the crawling. For the first few hours of use there was a belt squeel at idle in gear, but that soon went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How much top end did you lose? This is interesting to me, because I drove the Teryx that the donor engine came from in a parking lot, and it seemed really low geared. I didn't go fast or anything, just made sure it ran as it should. I know it has that Dasa clutch cover on it, but that is all I know about the clutch area besides the fact that main cover has been literally cut in half, with the lower clutch area being exposed. I will have Jeremy put my stock on back on.
 

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It will still hit an indicated 48 in high range, but the advantage is in low range. It locks up faster and at a lower RPM making it better in the rocks. Eventually, as the belt wears, you would be back to the normal top end.

I don't think your custom plate will make much difference at the low end, but does on the upper end (higher speed). Maybe Todd could chime in on this?
 
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