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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I made some headway toward our testing of exhaust.

The first part was to and still is to lock out the CVT for testing. There will be several videos that will come out of this simply because on our way to locking out the CVT you can do a belt deflection test, belt adjustment, belt change and clutch kit install video.

I have the CVT locked out for the test but have got to figure out how to start the Teryx in gear on the dyno with the tires turning when you turn the starter over because the CVT is locked out, you can't shift it from neutral to high with the transmission spinning. This might be hard but we will get it.

As soon as I get it started in gear we will get a baseline dyno run on the stock exhaust then move to the Gibson slip on, then the Muzzy. The other two exhaust have not been bought yet so when the time comes we will get them too.

I did however get the overdrive clutch cover from dalton tested out for speed. I disregard speeds but we had a gain of 8 mph on the dyno but I don't expect it on the road. My teryx does not have a speedo so I use the sppedo on the dyno and it said I was hitting 57 before and now 65.

It will be a while before this Teryx touches the ground so for now I will just say it works.

Todd
 

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Getting HP numbers on a CVT motor can be fun to see the differences between this and that but it doesn't tell the whole story. IMO none of my dynos (crank or rear wheel)really tell you what is really going on in the real world. Numbers do sell but it by far doesn't mean you are getting the best working product in the real word. Things that make good numbers on the crank or rear wheel dynos don't always work when you a driving in the real world. Once you work with a crank dyno you will get better feed back and that can point you in the right direction and then you can get it out and do some real testing with the butt dyno.lol The crank dyno will also get you a better idea of where to start on clutching, but that is just a starting point, and from what I have seen running race teams and dealing with 1000's of customers is everyone likes something different for their style of riding/driving. One clutch set up will not wok for every driver nor every motor build. Heck from pipe to pipe you can change the clutching to work better let a lone tire size/wheel wieght,sand ,mud and so on. This is why we use Dalton stuff,it may be a little more at first but it's everything you will need no matter what you do.
 

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Todd & FST......I think I understand what you both are saying about the CVT & all the variables that affect real life performance, but the concept of "locking out the CVT" is harder for me to understand. For those of us (I hope I'm not the only dummy on the forum) who don't quite understand this, please explain. If this were a car or truck with a stick shift, I'm imagining that you'd have the clutch out & the vehicle in gear (possibly high gear with 1:1 ratio). You'd start the engine & the drive wheels would immediately be turning. You'd then measure the output of horsepower & torque throughout the rev range. It's not how you accomplish this on the Teryx (I probably wouldn't understand unless I were standing there & you explained each step anyway, & maybe not even then), but the concept is what I'm trying to grasp. I hope I've explained this OK. And for everyone else out there, if you think it's taking Todd too long to get this exhaust thing done, blame that old fart from Northern Wisconsin (that be me) for making him stop what he's doing & answer such stupid questions:wave:
 

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I think you can start it in H by just holding your foot on the brake and it will start. It does on mine I am pretty sure.

Looking forward to this testing Todd.

I too am interested in the Clutch thing, and hearing from FST on the Dalton stuff was cool. Thank you.

It will be cool to hear Todd's no holds barred real skinny on the up and coming tests. Thank God your foot healed Todd. Rock on!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Turtle,

You should go over to my forum and read some tech articles, there just happens to be a tech article explaining a locked out CVT. Also it might slow the tech calls down!! LOL!!

Click the link below for the CVT lock out article

Tech Article

Magellan,

Mine will start in gear too by mashing the brake but the issue at hand is like having the clutch go out on a manual transmission car, the starter won't turn the engine and tires over so you have to push it off. Hard to do that on a dyno.

I got some weird ways but in the end it pays off.

When you lock the CVT you no longer have a clutch so the transmission is engaged all the time.

I had to put off work on this project today to get the new MSD Rhino ignitions preprogrammed, install video done and the programming video done.

By the way if you know a 700 rhino owner send them my way.:D

As far as FST comments go, he is right but a dyno is a great tool in the right hands and makes for a good comparison from one product to another. Also realize the dyno is only as honest as the person running it. One reason we have it is to keep the manufacturers honest.
 

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Turtle,

You should go over to my forum and read some tech articles, there just happens to be a tech article explaining a locked out CVT. Also it might slow the tech calls down!! LOL!!

Click the link below for the CVT lock out article

Tech Article

Magellan,

Mine will start in gear too by mashing the brake but the issue at hand is like having the clutch go out on a manual transmission car, the starter won't turn the engine and tires over so you have to push it off. Hard to do that on a dyno.

I got some weird ways but in the end it pays off.

When you lock the CVT you no longer have a clutch so the transmission is engaged all the time.

I had to put off work on this project today to get the new MSD Rhino ignitions preprogrammed, install video done and the programming video done.

By the way if you know a 700 rhino owner send them my way.:D

As far as FST comments go, he is right but a dyno is a great tool in the right hands and makes for a good comparison from one product to another. Also realize the dyno is only as honest as the person running it. One reason we have it is to keep the manufacturers honest.
Ahhh I understand now, sometimes my reading comprehension is about as good as my eyesight. ;)

Thank you for doing the review and looking forward to the results.
 

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As far as FST comments go, he is right but a dyno is a great tool in the right hands and makes for a good comparison from one product to another. Also realize the dyno is only as honest as the person running it. One reason we have it is to keep the manufacturers honest.
I wasn't saying dyno are not useful, but the problem is if you have a pipe and clutch setup for peak power of 40hp at 6000 rpm then you test another pipe that makes peak power of 45hp at 7000 how do you know if it's better or not with a clutch that is set for the same 6000rpm. Every change you make needs to be clutched for peak HP and the only dyno that will find the peak power is a crank dyno. This is why I have both Land & Sea's crank and rear wheel dynos. IMO you would have to run it on a crank dyno first, find peak HP and then clutch for that,then make your change and go back and do it again. It's hard and alot of work to get your head around these CVT's, and the dyno's are a good tool, but to tell you the truth I did everything I have now by way of the almighty butt dyno! lol
 

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Todd & FST, It's good to hear both of you discussing this stuff. As the saying goes, "opinions are like butts......everyone has one" , but in this case yours are worth something. Most of us out here definitely appreciate you guys sharing the knowledge/experience. And yes Todd I'll try to spend more time reading your tech bulletins.:)
 

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Todd,

You can probably find the exhaust decible test standards pretty easily. They are SAE standards. I don't recall the details exactly, but the meter is a certain distance from the exhaust tip at a 45 degree angle (I think?). You need to run the engine at steady speed for the test, at a certain specified RPM (1/2 max RPM, I believe). You also have to consider ambient sound, especially if you are inside a dyno cell without proper sound deadening. The test procedures are for measurement outside, without obstructions that can reflect sound. It might be worth the trouble to look for these standards so that your numbers are comparable to other numbers on systems that you do not test.

Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thunderhawk,

I never planned on doing a sound test from the get go but people wanted to know how loud these systems were compared to the stock system.


I don't think I will be so concerned with how the numbers compare as simply how much louder one might be over the other. I will test from the same location and at the same RPM for every system.

I may or may not report the db levels I might simply say one system is louder than the other.

People misunderstand sound levels anyway including myself.

I know when you have a 10 db difference it is twice as loud and when there is a 20 db difference it is four times as loud.

The dyno sits in a metal building with no sound deadening material and I don't want to remove the vehicle from the dyno with each system because the dyno numbers will change with the tension of the tie down straps.
 
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