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:good:Well if any of you are on the fence about spending the money on a AFR sensor i would go for it, If you can afford it. I just finished my Teryx today and it flat hauls...the mail. I put the Muzzy power up kit in it, AFE intake, re-jetted the carbs(190 in the front and 195 in the back, 2nd clip on the aftermarket needles and 2 turns on the screws. Well i thought it ran good then. Well, I installed the WEGO 3 made by Daytona Sensors, It was easy to do. (3 wires two grounds one power)I learned right away that i was way to rich. I leaned things out to 12.8 to 13.0 and OH, Boy it was like adding another hop up part to the Teryx. There is no guessing on fuel mixtures anymore. You need a muzzy exhaust to use the sensor. It was pricey but i wont be cleaning my goggles much anymore.
 

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I agree 100%. I also got the WEGO III from Muzzy's and I would never try to jet without it again. SOOOO Easy and the results are amazing. Get in touch with FST Mickey Dunlap and get yourself a Std Bore Kit and HOLD ON MAN!! OMG!
 

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It's thrice as nice for us amateurs! I was the same way, I was right on for idle...and that was about it, once I used the A/F meter...as you said...it was like adding another "HOP-UP" Now I know I have full power from my machine on idle at midrange and where I keep it most of the time WOT! I can admit I am a complete fool for not using one of these meters earlier. I have the one from HW Todds' and it does me just fine...so simple, I ain't no mechanical genius and this was bread and butter to use! I also used it on my old Artic Cat...and it has never...I MEAN never ran as good as it does now.

Live and learn, jump that fence and buy one, worth more than the 200-300 you'll spend!
 

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Looks nice, I like that you can plug it into the cigarette lighter! You do still remove the Bosch sensors though...when you're done, or do you leave them in? How much does this kit costs?
 

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You have to remove the sensors when you are not running power to them. The directions say not to run the machine without power applied and not to even start the machine for 20 seconds NGK and 60 seconds WEGO III after power is applied.
 

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I've got one of those Innovate too and still use the NGK. I guess I like it simple, the dyno data logs though.
So in essence, you have a $20,000 A/F meter....:D


You have to remove the sensors when you are not running power to them. The directions say not to run the machine without power applied and not to even start the machine for 20 seconds NGK and 60 seconds WEGO III after power is applied.
I know…,some people…hmm…don’t follow directions… (me)...:laugh:

What I was wondering was the advantage of having 2 sensors hooked up a once, besides the obvious. I am so simple minded I need to work on one carb at a time....:D

Really don’t see much of an advantage to the higher priced meters, except you can computer graphic your data, unless after you look at that data…you decide there is some other fine tuning that can be done? I'll stick with the old "KISS" method.
 

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I've been looking at the A/F meters also. I was wondering if you could just buy a gauge and a O2 sensor seperate. Then just hook them up. Would that work?
 

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What I was wondering was the advantage of having 2 sensors hooked up a once, besides the obvious. I am so simple minded I need to work on one carb at a time....:D
Advantage of the dual meter and simultaneous measurement is killing two birds with one stone. Each carb will be slightly different tune, so being able to measure each exhaust at the same time, you can tweek each carb at the same time. A single input meter you can only tune one carb at a time, so in essense your doubling your work.

I've been looking at the A/F meters also. I was wondering if you could just buy a gauge and a O2 sensor seperate. Then just hook them up. Would that work?
Yes you can, but the impedance (measure of AC resistance) of the O2 sensor is very important to measure accurately. Wideband sensors use very small current variations to determine A/F ratios. Narrow band sensors use voltage fluctuations which is not as accurate (but good enough for automotive applications). Bundled systems match the sensor to the controller for very precise A/F readings.
 

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I use two meters on two exhaust when I am on the dyno but I normally pay attention one, tune both carbs the same leaving the rear cylinder a slight bit richer to aid in cooling and when I am done I will switch it to the other side to check it, not double work just slightly more.

O2 with gauge would not be a good idea, one it is permanent install which will shorten the life of the expensive sensor they are almost all single or narrow band meaning they will only register right around 13 or so and if you are above or below this range you would not know which way to go and they are not heated so it will take about 45 minutes to get it hot enough to work correctly.

Teerible, that is a $30,000 AFR gauge I have.
 
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