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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On first test run after I completed installing evertyhing, I have bad sputter/popping when accelarating from 20-30mph. I am at half throttle then I step on it and get the sputtering/popping.

During this run, I forgot to hook up the crankase hose to the plenum/elbow and took off the rubber piece from the top of the airbox lid.

On my second run, I put the rubber piece back on and connected the crankase hose. It sputtered/popped right away. On my first run, I was able to reach a steady cruising speed and would only get the sputtering/popping after I stepped on the pedal.

Am I not getting enough air, vacum to the slides, or do I need bigger jets?

What I did;

I installed my ACracing dual exhaust and Velocity air filter.

I switched the bent connector between the air box and carb plenum/elbow to a straight connector I picked up at Pep Boys. No airbox mods.

My dynojet kit came with leftover jets from the dragonfire kit. Vendor at the sandsports who sold me the exhaust also has AC racing duals with 190 front and 195 rear jets. He is running the AFE intake, I just have the Velocity filter but I did change the elbow.

I have Dynojet 180 front and 185 rear. Clip is on second groove with two spacers on top. Slide springs and needles are same on both kits. Front and rear mixture screw is out two turns.

From factory, the fuel mixture screw was out 1 1/2 turns on the front and 1 turn out on the rear.
I can turn the
front mixture another 1/2 turn to match the rear by adding a complete turn to both carbs.
I already had an adjustable dynatek cdi from Hunterworks.

Thank you for your help, I am heading to Glamis on Thursday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Todd, all I did was take the lid off and it fixed my sputtering problem. I still need to finish tuning the carbs, but I am in the ballpark.

Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The only item replaced on my intake is the bent coupler/connecter that come factory. I replaced that with a straight thru connector/coupler. It moved the airbox over towards the driver but it will work for Glamis.

Withe the lid on, it idled fine and reved up no problem but was horrible when I took it down my street. Correction, I just turned into my driveway. There was no point to conitnue, it sputtered and popped.

I take the lid off, and it runs strong.

I have read just about all posts and threads regarding this right after I bought my Teryx. I thought I couldn't run without a lid.
 

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Sounds to me like you are rich.

When the lid is on (less air) you do not run correctly, when the lid is off (more air) you run correctly. Tells me you are rich, however, without an air fuel meter one cannot be sure.
 

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I'd bet that your new connector hose is collapsing under load (vacuum). Removing the airbox lid reduces the vacuum and may be allowing the hose to collapse less.
 

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I'd bet that your new connector hose is collapsing under load (vacuum). Removing the airbox lid reduces the vacuum and may be allowing the hose to collapse less.
I think so, because with the jets he is running for it to have to have the airbox lid removed to run good there has got to be an air delivery issue of some kind.
 
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