[FASTDAWG]

After going through all 32 pages of the general discussions, I did not see much on access to change the oil filter. I hate to be the only whiner on the forum about access to changing the oil filter, but I just got to vent....it is about the worst design I've ever seen. Shame on KAWI! OK....enough of that...

What solutions have others done to mitigate the problem? Removing panel "B" per the Owner's Manual is not the answer. Removing panel "B" and all the others that touch it only allows one to see the filter. If you have big hands you still can't get to it very well. Removing the skid plate seems like it would be an easier alternative, but still a huge pain. It seems to me that cutting an access hole in the skid plate to change the oil filter would be an easier solution long term. A cover plate could be made or just left open. Anyone got any solutions or thoughts on the matter. Thanks

 

[Teee-rible]

I hate to be the only whiner on the forum about access to changing the oil filter, but I just got to vent....it is about the worst design I've ever seen. Shame on KAWI! OK....enough of that...
Anyone got any solutions or thoughts on the matter.

Quit your damn whining, and get your wife to change the filter, that's what I do... J/K....

I have to agree with ya here, just wait till you start taking those skid plate bolts off, then you'll really be bitching....but I just take the back skid plate off, not all the skid plates. One of the vendors on here said they change their filters from the top...looks to me to be impossible to do from top..IMO.

See this tech article...click on the pdf file and it shows pictures.

http://www.teryxhq.com/forums/how-tos/588-teryx-oil-filter-change.html


This is how I do it....

http://www.teryxhq.com/forums/kawasaki-teryx-general-discussions/1055-easy-oil-change.html

 

[FASTDAWG]

GREAT IDEA! Currently my wife is cutting up blown down trees from the last winter storm, but if she could stop long enough to change the oil and filter on the Teryx then I could ride.....you would not mind asking her, would you?

Hey, somehow I missed the pdf on "changing the oil and filter". Special thanks for pointing it out...the factory guys should see that. While removing the skid plate is the lessor of two huge pains, it could be avoided by cutting a small access hole in the skid plate........anyone got any thoughts on this?

BTW....what does your wife use to wash the Teryx after you've been riding?

Thanks again....you are da man!

 

[Teee-rible]

GREAT IDEA! Currently my wife is cutting up blown down trees from the last winter storm, but if she could stop long enough to change the oil and filter on the Teryx then I could ride.....you would not mind asking her, would you?

it could be avoided by cutting a small access hole in the skid plate........anyone got any thoughts on this?

BTW....what does your wife use to wash the Teryx after you've been riding?

You are doing it all wrong....I cut up the firewood and make her split it!!!!

 

[Teee-rible]

it could be avoided by cutting a small access hole in the skid plate........anyone got any thoughts on this?

I think if you cut an access hole, you only open up possibilities of sticks or rock jamming into crankcase or filter, personally I would not do it.

You mean you wash yours! Them [email protected] at Kawasaki told me the decals would peel off if I washed it...:laugh:

 

[fireguy266]

I think if you cut an access hole, you only open up possibilities of sticks or rock jamming into crankcase or filter, personally I would not do it.

You mean you wash yours! Them [email protected] at Kawasaki told me the decals would peel off if I washed it...:laugh:

See. This is what pisses me off. Kawi makes changing the oil and filter so consumer unfriendly that we end up fighting amongst ourselves. All regular maintainance should not be so difficult, unless of course, it is intentional by Kawi. Its the dealers that talk to Kawi, not us. It might just be that they are the ones that tell Kawi to make simple maintainance just hard enough that most consumers will not do it themselves. This way the dealers can bang us for that simple oil/filter change, plug change, belt adjustment, etc....

 

[FASTDAWG]

Hey guys...

Here is what I'm thinking.....Directly, under the filter is a flat spot about 6 inches wide with grooves on both sides. Without cutting into the grooves, cut a rectangulat hole about 5 1/2" wide by about 8-9 inches long. The cut a piece of flat metal about 3/4" bigger than the hole. Attach cover with 1/4" speednuts and bolts. Speednuts are those little clips that have a nut attached to them and you slide them over the hole and then screw a bolt through them. Since the skid plate is thin stamped steel, anything we make a cover out of would be much stronger. You would take out 3 small bolts and loosen the last bolt allowing the cover plate to pivot allow access to the filter. Thoughts???

 

[RaceandCrash]

Having a little access plate would work. Another idea would be an aftermarket external oil filter mount such as used on a vw for use of a PH8A. Maybe an after market product for someone? Could also go with an external oil cooler - oil pressure a problem?

 

[dbmachine]

Fastdawg has a great idea...just cut out a place big enough to get your meat hooks through the skid to grab the filter...have a metal fab shop cut you a piece of plate 1 inch larger on all 4 sides to overlap the hole you cut....drill 4 holes in each corner of the stock skid..tack weld 4 nuts on the backside of each corner...install 4 bolts and presto your done and still have protection...i may tackle this project this week...ill post pics if i do manage to get some free time...

 

[Teee-rible]

There already is an access plate, with 2 bolts. I am assuming he has no problem getting the filter out of that hole currently, the problem is reaching back up there with the filter and putting it back on? Is that right? I know that was the problem I had, so I just took the entire back plate off. I think enlarging the current access hole by say 2-3 inches on all 3 sides would get the job done, then getting the right size access door made and put in, like FASTDAWG says, would solve the problem.
And by the way I have had every single piece of plastic shrouding off of this machine...and I am POSITIVE filter should not be changed from the top. doing it that way would make a 5 minute job turn into a two hour job.

 

[dbmachine]

Teee-rible...my 08 teryx absolutely positively doesnt have the access hole you speak of on the bottom...you must remove 8 or 10 10mm bolts drop the skip to get to the oil filter...

 

[Teee-rible]

My bad, must be thinking off something else

 

[dbmachine]

you are prob thinking of the air box...2 push pins and the back half of the center console comes off...

off topic but anyone know what category the bottom skids would be on the kawasaki website parts schematics...i have looked at everything and dont see the under belly skids in any category..

 

[Teee-rible]

you are prob thinking of the air box...2 push pins and the back half of the center console comes off...

off topic but anyone know what category the bottom skids would be on the kawasaki website parts schematics...i have looked at everything and dont see the under belly skids in any category..

Funny?? There is an access plate on the bottom I just thought...(my first mistake) it was to the filter.
The access plate has 5 bolts in it.

Parts diagram #40 Gaurds cab and frame

 

[FASTDAWG]

Teee-rible is right...there is no way to change the filter from the top or at least there is no way I can do it. From the bottom is the only way. Kawi should redesign the skid plates where is only one access plate for both the filter and the oil drain plug. It could be hinged on the front edge and have 2 bolts on the rear. Then to change the oil and filter, one must remove 2 bolts, the oil drain plug, the oil and the filter. Reverse the process and go ride! Also the height of the oil filler tube should be increased. Anyone at Kawi listening?????????????

I was contemplating making the cover plate from 3/16 aluminum plate and using the speednuts. This way I can do it all in my shop. The top side of my machine is all taken apart as is the bottom side just to change the oil and filter!!!!!!!!!! The one thing that is a fact is I am only going to do this once. I see the risk as minimal since if I totally screw up, it's just a skid plate that can be repaired or replaced very easy.

 

[SandJunkie]

Funny?? There is an access plate on the bottom I just thought...(my first mistake) it was to the filter.
The access plate has 5 bolts in it.

Parts diagram #40 Gaurds cab and frame

That plate is to get to the drain plug...if you look in your service manual pages 2-31 and 2-32 there is a complete detail on the change.

There is ANOTHER plate in the middle of the Teryx with 10 bolts that has to be removed to get to the filter on the front side of the motor...with a air ratchet it wasn't too bad but a pain nonetheless...

Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Engine Lubrication System
Engine Oil Change
•Remove: Bottom Guard Bolts [A] Bottom Guard
•Support the vehicle so that it is level, both side to side and
front to rear after warming up the engine.
•Remove the engine oil drain plug [A] to drain the oil.
○The oil in the filter can be drained by removing the filter
(see Oil Filter Change).
•Replace the oil drain plug gasket with a new one.
•Tighten: Torque - Engine Oil Drain Plug: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14 ft·lb)
•Pour in the specified type and amount of oil.
Engine Oil
Type: API SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Amount: 2.1 L (2.2 US qt)
(When filter is not removed)
2.2 L (2.3 US qt)
(When filter is removed)
2.3 L (2.4 US qt)
(When engine is completely dry)
NOTE
○Although 10W-40 engine oil is the recommended oil
for most conditions, the oil viscosity may need to be
changed to accommodate atmospheric conditions in
your riding area.
•Install: Bottom Guard (see Engine Bottom Guard Installation in
the Frame chapter)
•Remove: Engine Bottom Cover (see Engine Bottom Cover Installation
in the Frame chapter)
•Drain the engine oil.
•Remove the oil filter [A] with the oil filter wrench .
Special Tool - Oil Filter Wrench: 57001-1249
•Replace the filter with a new one.
•When installing the oil filter, be careful of the following.
○Apply oil to the gasket [A] before installation.
○Tighten the filter with the oil filter wrench.
Special Tool - Oil Filter Wrench: 57001-1249
Torque - Oil Filter: 17.5 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
○Pour in the specified type and amount of oil.
•Install: Engine Bottom Cover (see Engine Bottom Cover Installation
in the Frame chapter)