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I'm running the engine oil I got from the Kawi dealer. 4 cycle engine oil 10W-40, (SP-4A). I don't think you're supposed to run synthetic in these things until you have quite a few hours on them. I could be wrong, but for some reason, that sticks in my mind.
 

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Valvoline has a newer "4-Stroke ATV oil" that meets the spec. Kawasaki sets for the Teryx.
I am using it, I change it about every 8-10 engine hours. These things don't hold much oil and it is cheap insurance to do so.
 

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I use Amoil (of course) full synthetic...I did meet with a couple of Kawasaki engineers about a month ago. There are no issues running fully synthetic oils in these machines, in fact they recommended it. The old myth about not running synthetic on break in has to do with ring seeding. The tolerances were not as refined since the machining wasn't available to be able to spec very tight tolerances. Over the last 20 or so years machining equipment has taken a huge leap forward and your ring to cylinder gaping is very tight. This has virtually eliminated the need to wear your rings in to prevent blow-by. Back then synthetics were too uniform and did not allow the ring to drive against the cylinder wall to warp properly to seal. Fully synthetic oils run cooler engine temps, do not break viscosity (high film strength), prevent tarnish/sludge build-up and resists oxidation.

This is true for all synthetics.
 

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That's good information to know about the synthetic oil. I was probably still in the "old school" mindset of breaking the motor in and letting the rings seat properly. Is there a certain amount of hours we should have on these things before we run synthetic, or do we just dump it in and go? Also, any recommendations on brands as far as synthetic?

Any recomendations on oil filter? I've been getting the filters from the dealer and they seem to be an average filter, but I'm just wondering if there is a better oil filter out there.
 

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That's good information to know about the synthetic oil. I was probably still in the "old school" mindset of breaking the motor in and letting the rings seat properly. Is there a certain amount of hours we should have on these things before we run synthetic, or do we just dump it in and go? Also, any recommendations on brands as far as synthetic?

Any recomendations on oil filter? I've been getting the filters from the dealer and they seem to be an average filter, but I'm just wondering if there is a better oil filter out there.
You can use full synthetic from go...BUT for the first 0-20 hours warm the engine up before you take off...idle for 5 minutes and try not to stay at the same rpm for a long period of time. Also, change the oil/filter at 10 hours and again at around 20-25 hours (this is why I wouldn't use synthetic as your going to drain it anyways, so why pay extra?!?)

Stock filter, WIX, Amsoil, K&N, NAPA Gold, Puralotor are all good. They are full flow and provide great filtration.

:D
 

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Kawasaki full synthetic. No complaints.
 

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I use Amoil (of course) full synthetic...I did meet with a couple of Kawasaki engineers about a month ago. There are no issues running fully synthetic oils in these machines, in fact they recommended it. The old myth about not running synthetic on break in has to do with ring seeding. The tolerances were not as refined since the machining wasn't available to be able to spec very tight tolerances. Over the last 20 or so years machining equipment has taken a huge leap forward and your ring to cylinder gaping is very tight. This has virtually eliminated the need to wear your rings in to prevent blow-by. Back then synthetics were too uniform and did not allow the ring to drive against the cylinder wall to warp properly to seal. Fully synthetic oils run cooler engine temps, do not break viscosity (high film strength), prevent tarnish/sludge build-up and resists oxidation.

This is true for all synthetics.
Any thoughts of adding "Lucas Oil additive" in with oil change. If you ever saw the Lucas demo in the auto parts places (the oil really sticks to the gears) it might look like it would help a lot. What do you think?
 

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Any thoughts of adding "Lucas Oil additive" in with oil change. If you ever saw the Lucas demo in the auto parts places (the oil really sticks to the gears) it might look like it would help a lot. What do you think?
Amsoil does not recommend any oil additives with our products...I cannot speak for the others. Although this paper might explain why Lucas needs an additive with its synthetic product:

(March 2009)
http://www.amsoil.com/news/2009_June_noack_volatility_test.pdf

Full motor oil testing (Nov. 2008)
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf

Now before ya'll blast me, the testing is done by an independent lab using ASTM procedures.
 

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Interesting, thanks for the info... I still don't think I would run any synthetic oils until at least 20 hours on the engine with some good old hard breaking in! Just wouldn't trust or take the chance that you might be making an oil-burner. Not worth the chance because once you make it an oil-burner it is always an oil-burner, pretty hard to then put in regular oil and then get the rings to break in and seat themselves! Just my 2 cents.
 

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Although I am unsure about the break-in's with synthetics, I too change my oil way too often and sooner than one probably should, therefore...I couldn't justify costs of synthetic oil.
 

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Interesting, thanks for the info... I still don't think I would run any synthetic oils until at least 20 hours on the engine with some good old hard breaking in! Just wouldn't trust or take the chance that you might be making an oil-burner. Not worth the chance because once you make it an oil-burner it is always an oil-burner, pretty hard to then put in regular oil and then get the rings to break in and seat themselves! Just my 2 cents.
When I purchased my Teryx, I just ran the oil that was in it until the 20 hr service, then I put full synthetic. I'm not sure why someone would take a new Teryx home and dump the oil right away - just stick with the schedule in the owners manual :good:
 

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I'm at work and home is 40 miles away - want to go to NAPA here in town to get oil and filters - it appears their 1358 Gold works from what I'm reading - and 10W-40 in this thread for oil - what I don't remember in the manual is how many quarts for an oil change. Thanks in advance. Rick
 

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Holds about 3 litres, me being metric which is just over 3 quarts. You better get 4 quarts to do the oil change, as for the filter, I don't know for sure? There is a thread on here with an interchange chart of oil filters, it may tell you if this is the right one.
 
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