Teryx HQ banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I figured some of you guys might be interested to see the labor part of using the Fuel Air Ratio Gauge. These are the Muzzy's Front & Rear Headpipe #2. It cost me 50.00 including the tap to clean out the bungs after welding them on. A local guy did a nice job on these in very short notice. Thanks Chuck!! Chuck also made me some spacers to space the Muzzy's heat shield that you can see in the photo further away from the head pipe to aid cooling since I have the header wrap on it. This is the heat shield that protects the plastic Stator (Alternator) Cover on the left side of your engine and comes with the Muzzy's Exhaust system.




This one shows the sensor installed.


I hope to get to try this out sometime soon!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
humm interesting...
i am thinking about going down the same road. i will hunt around for a complete writeup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Muzzy's definitely has the best welders know to mankind.

The placement of that is not where I would have put it. Where I had mine installed I do not have to remove any plastic to install the sensor and test. If I need to rejet I do need to pull the uppermost plastic, 2 screws, 3 small rivets and two big rivets and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
Correct Will, I did have to remove the air filter - carb cover, only 2 screws and 7 push pins, but I did mine when I installed the muzzy's...as I assume most people would...unless they are buying the A/F after the fact none the less...doesn't matter...cause once you hook up the gauge, you need the plastics off to set the carbs and possibly rejet anyway.

Crowdog, love that ceramic coating...how much extra was that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
See..that's what I am for getting in a hurry, if any body else is ordering these...GET THE CERAMIC COATING!

I will be taking mine to get coated now that I've had them on for a while...I can see a definite advantage..IMO. Live and Learn, my momma always told me...course I never believed her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I am running the Muzzy's ceramic coated pipes and I really like them. Very high quality coating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Pardon my dumb question, but are you using one sensor and setting the carb on each exhaust? Or setting one carb and then matching the jets on the other? Shouldn't they be the same???

I'm getting an AEM A/F gauge and wondering if I need to put bungs in both headers. I don't see the need, but I'm no expert...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Pardon my dumb question, but are you using one sensor and setting the carb on each exhaust? Or setting one carb and then matching the jets on the other? Shouldn't they be the same???

I'm getting an AEM A/F gauge and wondering if I need to put bungs in both headers. I don't see the need, but I'm no expert...
On these motors there is better cooling on one cylinder. this mean the jetting is different between the two cylinders usually by about two jet sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
On these motors there is better cooling on one cylinder. this mean the jetting is different between the two cylinders usually by about two jet sizes.
So I'd need to check each pipe and adjust, any rule of thumb to make it quicker? i.e. front is always two jet smaller....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
So I'd need to check each pipe and adjust, any rule of thumb to make it quicker? i.e. front is always two jet smaller....
IM not sure on the teryx but 750 Brute force was usally 6 sizes smaller in the front.
The praire 700 was usally about 4 sizes smally in the front.
im not sure what the diffrence is on the teryx(just started playing with them) but im sure Todd with hunter works could tell you that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Thanks for the help, I'll mod each pipe and do it right...BTW Jegs has the AEM wideband controller/gauge for $218...great deal on a wideband guage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
668 Posts
I have muzzys, no altitude changing, cdi and Hunterworks carb kit with both TPI valves, One fully open and the other...well sometimes closed...sometimes half open and sometimes fully open depending on the humidity and temperature.
If you have regular exhaust or slip on I believe Todd said to use 144 in front and 146 in rear. The 146 and 148 are the jets with the HW kit, I believe other kits have different numbers for their jets, I remember reading a post somewhere that somebody used 190 in front and 196 in rear...so I know numbering in the kits are different depending on where you got the kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,999 Posts
Went over to Jegs and looked that gauge. Likes like you only get the controller not the sensor which is another $70 but I could be wrong plus shipping.

Also that is a permanent mount which won't work too good for what we are doing and with a permanent install you could not change pipes easily. You need to check the air/fuel in both pipes. I suppose you could buy two permanent installs.

Besides, a sensor has a limited life span and leaving it in all the time will shorten the time.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top