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Discussion Starter #1
anyone have any info on the different sounds and symptoms of being rich or lean on the kaw v twin?
 

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[/I assume that it is like all others I have worked with excessive black build up on the plug or exhaust outlet most times its running a little on the rich side or raw gas smell out of the exhaust but you know what they say about assume (ass u me) it can make an ass out of you and me
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
while it was cold i had my 840 running perfect..30s and 40s.... now it is around 50s to 70s and it has developed a miss at cruising at about 40 mph..its like it has bad gas or something...i run 93 octane and had added a can of octane booster and thats the change besides the weather.anyways i talked to mickey and he said to remove one spacer under the stock needle and that did help so then he told me to remove the other one..i havent done this yet.it doesnt happen while under full throttle just while giving it the very least amount of fuel to keep it at 40mph.i then can apply a little more throttle and it goes away.im also going to either try to borrow someones air fuel guage or buy one before i tinker with it anymore so i will know for sure what to do.any help would be appreciated.and it seems to be backfiring alot after i do a full speed run and then let off the throttle...????
 

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while it was cold i had my 840 running perfect..30s and 40s.... now it is around 50s to 70s and it has developed a miss at cruising at about 40 mph..its like it has bad gas or something...i run 93 octane and had added a can of octane booster and thats the change besides the weather.anyways i talked to mickey and he said to remove one spacer under the stock needle and that did help so then he told me to remove the other one..i havent done this yet.it doesnt happen while under full throttle just while giving it the very least amount of fuel to keep it at 40mph.i then can apply a little more throttle and it goes away.im also going to either try to borrow someones air fuel guage or buy one before i tinker with it anymore so i will know for sure what to do.any help would be appreciated.and it seems to be backfiring alot after i do a full speed run and then let off the throttle...????
easy fix...keep your foot in it!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
come on sandjunkie.....lets keep the topic on track...you know with helpful information..give me an teryx cover plate and i will forgive you!!:D:laugh::laugh:
 

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Keeping on track here, I was thinking why would you be going a steady speed and it be forty? Don't do that

Mickey is on the right track, sounds like too rich in middle throttle.

The shims have no affect on wide open throttle cause the needle is basically out of the needle jet at this point and not affecting fuel metering.
 

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come on sandjunkie.....lets keep the topic on track...you know with helpful information..give me an teryx cover plate and i will forgive you!!:D:laugh::laugh:
Hmmm...ya never know...I used to do a thing called "Freebie Fridays" on a LTR forum I mod...we would give all kinds of things away...

I'll think about it...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i was told to use 2 shims and i had to take one out already and now you say to take the other one out also?mickey said so too...i ordered an lm1 meter and may wait to use it before i remove the carbs anymore!!!ive only had them off 73 times now:D
 

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Whats one more time man??? LOL Seriously, you are rich in your mid range (needle adjustment). Jetting carbs is far from being a text book task. Every machine is going to be slightly different in different rpm zones but you can find some good write ups out there. Basic knowledge on jetting will go a long way on sorting your problems out. Listen to these guys and take that other shim out, you'll be alot happier.

If I remember correctly FCR may have a nice write up, may have been someone else. Just do a search on carb tuning basics or carb jetting basics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ya i have problably read every post on this site about tuning this utv and still needed to ask a question about it...thanks for your assistance though!next window please!:D
 

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i was told to use 2 shims and i had to take one out already and now you say to take the other one out also?mickey said so too...i ordered an lm1 meter and may wait to use it before i remove the carbs anymore!!!ive only had them off 73 times now:D
Wouldn't removing a shim be a lean condition? Meaning you had two shims installed, the overall length of the needle = needle + 2 shims. So you removed one shim (length = needle + 1 shim) and now it is slightly shorter, thus allowing more fuel through the main jet at that slide location.

It doesn't make sense to me as the air temp is hotter and warmer air = less air density, so you'd assume that your running rich (less air and same fuel as before).

Where am I wrong here??? HELP!
 

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Wouldn't removing a shim be a lean condition? Meaning you had two shims installed, the overall length of the needle = needle + 2 shims. So you removed one shim (length = needle + 1 shim) and now it is slightly shorter, thus allowing more fuel through the main jet at that slide location.

It doesn't make sense to me as the air temp is hotter and warmer air = less air density, so you'd assume that your running rich (less air and same fuel as before).

Where am I wrong here??? HELP!
You are wrong here!! Removing the shim allows the needle to drop farther into the main bearing, in doing this, along with the taper of the needle it will reduce the opening size and change the useable section of the needle.

Whitey!! Try the google search bar, not the forum search. I should have specified, my apolagies.

Chris
 

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You are wrong here!! Removing the shim allows the needle to drop farther into the main bearing, in doing this, along with the taper of the needle it will reduce the opening size and change the useable section of the needle.

Whitey!! Try the google search bar, not the forum search. I should have specified, my apolagies.

Chris
Must be a long needle to reach all the way to crank. LOL I could not help myself, not being a smart ass

Needle Jet is more accurate..

Here is a tech article I wrote explaining it

Tech article
 

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Wouldn't removing a shim be a lean condition? Meaning you had two shims installed, the overall length of the needle = needle + 2 shims. So you removed one shim (length = needle + 1 shim) and now it is slightly shorter, thus allowing more fuel through the main jet at that slide location.

It doesn't make sense to me as the air temp is hotter and warmer air = less air density, so you'd assume that your running rich (less air and same fuel as before).

Where am I wrong here??? HELP!
The shims are under the clip on the needle, does not change the length just how far it sits down in the needle jet. The lower it sits the more it cuts fuel off so the leaner it gets at mid throttle. Once throttle is open more than 3/4 the needle plays no role cause it is pulled almost all the way out of the needle jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
my jetting is 195 and 200 mains with #40 pilots and stock needles with 2 shims and now 1 and soon to be no shims on the carbs..cant wait to get the tuner so i can get this thing tuned.
 
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