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I had a 07 Rhino 4 seater and could not climb Olds hill at Glamis. It was jetted with a CDI.

Then I installed the EPI duner kit and then could climb up it no problem. I know many Rhino owners that use the EPI clutch kits because they work.
So I personally know that the EPI (duner) clutch kit is NOT a waste of time/money for the Rhino after putting 2000 miles on mine. This is in response to a post I read from a vendor stating EPI clutch kits are a waste of time and money for a Rhino.

So I would like to hear from the people that have installed the EPI kits for the Teryx. I have heard great things about the Dalton kit, but is it because they are making money off it? or is it truly superior to EPI? I am in the market for a belt and clutch kit and would like more information.
 

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Here is the short answer, and I make nothing off of telling you this, the Dalton Clutch is adjustable, meaning you can tune it to your needs. The EPI is what it is, if you want something different, then you need to purchase additional components to change things.

I am not even close to a pro on the clutching, however, from everyone I have talked to Dale is...if you really want a technical explanation why his kit is superior, he is more than happy to talk you. Honestly, give Dale a call, he can tell you all about the Kawasaki CVT.

If you prefer, he is on this site, username Helix, so you can send him a PM.
 

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I have installed a couple Teryx EPI kits. They work very well, IMO. I have not had the chance to compare them with the Dalton kit, other than physically looking at them.
I don't think you'd be sorry if you bought the EPI kit.
Also, I wouldn't change the belt, unless yours is worn. EPI's belts are made by the same company that makes Kawasaki's belts.
Glenn Erlandson, the owner of EPI, spent a lot of time with me explaining their findings with the Teryx clutch. He explained that the stock secondary spring is too heavy initially, and then too soft as it gets compressed. EPI attributes this spring issue as a major contributor to the belt problems that some people are having with the Teryx.
 

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Who makes the Kawasaki belts?
 

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I'm the vendor that said the EPI didn't work for the Rhino and I said I am sure somebody somewhere might receive a benefit from them but we could not get a positive result from any clutch of any brand in a Rhino.

Dalton does not make one for a Rhino and it is because they could not get a positive result either.

That being said I am sure yours might have worked for your application but we had too many people call us back stating they could not tell a difference and if you know anything about Hunterworks we will only sell what works and won't promote something that does not. I felt bad about charging a guy nearly $200 for something they didn't get a noticable result from. I am more concerned about making the customer happy than the profit off an item with questionable results.

We support the Dalton for the Teryx because we know they do work. I am sure the EPI for a Teryx works fine but I prefer the Dalton because it is adjustable instead of having to pick a kit out for one application like EPI.

By the way, we have the dlaton in stock and the over drive plate too!!
 

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I installed an EPI kit and could not be more happy with mine. I also have not used or installed the Dalton clutch kits but heard good things about them. I am kind of interested in hearing who actually adjusts their weights and the performance gains because of the adjustment. I can understand if it is the dunes where you run WFO and climbing hills but not trail and mud riding. Just curious.
 

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what all do you have to switch out on the dalton,say going from big tires to a dune setup with stockers?
 

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Our kit for the Teryx uses Dalton's patented "quick adjust" flyweights.This refers to the method of adjustment. most of the adjustment of the total weight in the flyweight arm can be done without even pulling the clutch or removing the flyweight from the drive clutch. On some of our own(for some other vehicles) and many other kits out there one of the main components that make all the different kit "version" different is the different "grams" ...and "location of mass" on the FLYWEIGHTS. All those different kits you see out there with different applications that are specific...it is most often the FLYWEIGHT that are the thing that is changed

Flyweights are the principal means of control of shift rpm for different situations. Total mass,location of mass,..and curvature all make up the requirements for shift rpm. Some people very mistakenly always compare flyweights by "grams" alone which is very wrong,..as curvature and location of mass can make the total grams completely irrelevant.

not only the quick adjust feature,but a lot of R&D went into flyweight prototypes for curvature to be very flexible and be able to calibrate for different adjustments. It would have been very quick and easy for us to use existing brute force curvatures we already had,etc. Building multi position tooling fixtures for cnc machine to cut our Billet tool steel flyweights is very expensive and "curvature specific"...most expensive option is to have to do a whole new curve,..but that is what it had to be..but look even at factory Kawasaki flyweights for an example....the Teryx uses a MUCH different curvature than the Brute force/Prairie models. Obviously it is not the same ,or even a similar vehicle...the extra 600 lbs?.. the fact that it often carries two people?.. you can see it is a different application.

I have zero experience with other compettitors kits on this model. I'm sure they an improvement and probably work fine if you choose the correct one for your application.

WHO CAN or WOULD USE an adjustable version with an instruction manual for set up?

-If you run a big tire only clutch kit on a machine with big tires it will most likely be a better calibration and you will like it....on a stock tire machine you will lose top speed and it will seem like you are revving and going nowhere,lose top speed,and be harder on fuel. similar for a dune kit...or a dune with oversized,..
- how about a guy that lives at 0-3000 ft elevation,..but he's going to Cook City Mt for a couple weeks...there is no power up there. The machine that is calibrated properly sea level will upshift way too quickly for an application like that where there is no oxygen and no hp....it will be boggy and non responsive and annoying.
- How about a guy that Runs in the swamps with his buddies a couple times a year with big mud tires...they do the trip and that is the only time he uses those big heavy rubber. The rest of the time he uses it around the farm or trail rides with his wife,..but he absolutely hates the characteristics of those big tires driving him instead of the other way around.??
- How about a guy that has NOS injection and needs lots of flyweight...he can get away with upshifting WAY fat when he hits the button drag racing...
-How about a guy with a set of FST or FUNDY camshafts and/ or engine package?...this kit will accomodate both of the most popular Kawasaki V-twin engine builders,because as always ,we do extensive work with both of them.

In most of these situations above it would only be a matter of opening the clutch cover(I know,on a teryx it is a bit of a pain compared to a ATV)...and turning the drive clutch...turn each flyweight to the top,...add or subtract set screws according to the manual,....and put the cover back on.
-You do not need 2 or 3 different clutch kits
-you can adjust it as you modify(with instructions in the kit for most)
-If you plan a trip to the mountains?.....high elevation kills these machines..the losses will be less noticeable when cvt clutch is calibrated properly......it is all in the box with the kit,you make the necessary adjustments.
-planning a once/year trip out west to the dunes?

if you think you will always stay around home and only have the one set of tires that you care about,if you think you will never get a engine performance package or do modifications,....if you think you will never feel like you may have purchased the "wrong version of clutch kit" it may not be worth paying more money for our clutch kit,but this kit has everything from optional engagement rpm springs,to the calibrations of hardware for the flyweights to do all of the above. It is like having MANY clutch kits in one.

You know,if you only use the STOCK tires themselves,...and ride on hardpacked trails,there will be gains in performance with a clutch kit(particularly backshifting to proper ratio when climbing a long hill),but not as noticeable as when you get the gearing messed up with oversized tires,or sand,or high elevations,or you know,..all the things you see different versions of clutch kits for. Kawasaki didn't just throw it out there,they did a decent job for all around calibration for the stock machine. If you put in some racing cams and the rpm you are turning during the clutch phase is 1000 too low,it it real noticeable right now!
...similarly if you upshift the pulleys too fast for those big mud tires(picture a 10 speed bicycle and upshifting too quickly to higher gearing)

Whoever you choose for a clutch kit manufacturer,proper cvt calibration is valuable to life of the drive belt....how many expensive belts would you say a person could ruin before the kit is free?

Teryxes are getting very well known for having belt issues,I hear it from service managers at dealerships regularly. This is not a continuous grip system with a wet clutch like a Rhino or Suzuki,..it is a flyweight system that has to grab the belt everytime you stop and start. On a heavy vehicle like this if you do the wrong things you can always hurt your belt. There are things you learn like:,...keep momentum,..get in low before you need it,...Don't point it down into a ditch in high and stop at the bottom and try to come up out of there,use low and keep momentum. AND the most important onew:..SET BELT deflection properly...this should be done before it ever leaves the dealership. Installing a clutch kit is a good time to check it.

There are benefeits to both types of systems...with a kawi/polaris type of flyweight system,you never smoke out the wet clutch inside the motor..which in turn contaminates the oil and ruins the motor(MANY RHINOs burn a ton of oil)
..but a Rhino will never use as many belts as a Teryx ,particularly if you have someone that is uneducated to the system. There are some that will run for many,many miles trouble free.


Sorry for the long rambling. Just some info from our side.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys for the feedback on the EPI clutch kit. and Helix, and Hunterworks for the explanation of the Dalton clutch kit!
Have a great Thanksgiving!
 

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I love my Dalton clutch kit nad OD cover. Night and day difference over stock. I am not making anything from it other than rooster tails. :)

If you check the Youtube link in my signature, you can see how to adjust the flyweights in Dalton Clutch video #2.

Thank you Dale and Dalton Industries, my Teryx is now a completely different machine, and I will be installing the FST Std Bore kit next week. :)
 

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No problem.
Megellan,when you get the kit instlled,let me know which camshafts,which tires,etc and I'll give you specific set up. We have tested standard bore kits in our own teryx as well.
 

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Interesting point Todd.

Dale was definitely approachable with my install and he helped me make the right choices and understand the answer to all my questions. Dalton is a first class outfit there is no doubt. Exceptional value for the price IMHO.
 

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No problem.
Megellan,when you get the kit instlled,let me know which camshafts,which tires,etc and I'll give you specific set up. We have tested standard bore kits in our own teryx as well.
Can you let me know the specific setup for mine? I have the fst standard bore kit with stage two cams, muzzy exhaust, dasa intake, dynatec cdi, 25" hauler paddles. Thanks
 
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