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Just made a fresh air snorlel for $11.04 ! It consists of a short piece of 1.5" pipe, 1.5" street l and one clamp. Works great ,simply heated the small end of the street l with a heat gun and molded it to the same shape as the factory rubber snorkle and added a clamp. No more sucking the dust cloud. What do you guys think? I will make a mounting bracket for it today and remove the zip tie.:)
 

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Just made a fresh air snorlel for $11.04 ! It consists of a short piece of 1.5" pipe, 1.5" street l and one clamp. Works great ,simply heated the small end of the street l with a heat gun and molded it to the same shape as the factory rubber snorkle and added a clamp. No more sucking the dust cloud. What do you guys think? I will make a mounting bracket for it today and remove the zip tie.:)
Great job on the heat gun molded transition. Great idea. Should do the same with the bought system I have. Good work.
 

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Looks good.

Is it the same size as stock inside? i.e. getting enough air?

Is it any louder?
 

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Just made a fresh air snorlel for $11.04 ! It consists of a short piece of 1.5" pipe, 1.5" street l and one clamp. Works great ,simply heated the small end of the street l with a heat gun and molded it to the same shape as the factory rubber snorkle and added a clamp. No more sucking the dust cloud. What do you guys think? I will make a mounting bracket for it today and remove the zip tie.:)
Saw your thread on Teryx Forums and decided to try it on my machine and my FIL's. Pretty easy mod, and a brilliant idea. We're experimenting to see if a 45* elbow will work better than a 90, because on our machines, the 90 ends up being pretty far off of square.. I can see that yours isn't either, but yours doesn't look quite as extreme as ours did. A 60* street elbow seems like it would work perfectly, but couldn't find any at Lowes yesterday.



What year is this?

1.5" may be too small
Mine is a 2012 and my FIL's is an 11. A 1.5" pipe fits inside the rubber perfectly (although on our machines there was an extra step of having to cut out some rubber from the intake because the pipe is seperated into two chambers).

This mod definitely restricts air flow to some extent since we're not only lengthening the intake but also reducing the size marginally, but I think it'll be a worthwhile tradeoff since the filter should stay cleaner, avoiding that reduction of airflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my Teryx is a 2010. i have put 100 miles on the machine since i put the snorkel on. I removed the air filter about an hour ago to inspect the element. Just as i figured the element still looked new. There have been around 30 crankshaft/rod failures in my area because of dirt contaminated oil in the engine. i will sacrifice a quarter horse power. also thinking of adding a second universal UNI filter to the snorkel!
 

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So I did this mod today on my FIL's machine (doing mine tomorrow)... It was EASY... We used a 45* elbow instead of a 90 and I think it worked out better (just my opinion)...

Here are a few things I found out:

1. A heat gun and a vice makes this easy. Use the heat gun and vice to get to the rough shape, then use a pair of pliers to fine tune the edges and make the shape exactly what you need.

2. as stated above, 45* street elbows worked better for us than 90's.

3. You have to cut the plastic that goes over the airbox to make this fit. On our machines, that ended up being 1.75" that we cut in a half circle.

4. To fit the top elbow perfectly above your cage crossbeams, 10" is the right height for the upright.

Now, on to the pics:






 

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I would still highly suggest you get the air right. If and I say if it is running lean because of the small intake pipe then over time it will cause damage possibly and of course hurt performance.
I get your point, but isn't the function of the ECM to adjust the air/fuel mix based on the amount of air coming in? Additionally, this is an incredibly miniscule reduction in the size of the pipe, and thus the amount of air flow. In fact, I'm not even sure it is a reduction, because I had to stretch the rubber to get it over the PVC pipe.

Finally, sucking cleaner air means your filter will stay cleaner for longer, meaning the motor will get MORE air more consistently. So if the ECM isn't smart enough to change the air/fuel mix based on air volume, we should all just sell our machines, because the crappy location of the stock intake means we're constantly starving our machines for air.
 

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Unfortunately the ECM can't adjust for this. It can't adjust for the lack of air or the addition of air such as some mod.

The only sensor that could play a role at all would be the air intake pressure sensor. It basically just measures atmospheric pressure and load.

All I am saying is be careful or make the pipe bigger. 2" should be fine for something short like under 12" anything longer I would go 2.5"

A air/fuel ratio gauge would tell the tell.

I see snorkeled ATV's and UTV's in my shop a good bit. Have had to tune a few as well. They are always way rich and have to really cut fuel to get them to run right. Bad part there is, if you are cutting air with the snorkel then cutting fuel to match it then you are cutting power.

Also I meant you would be running rich in the earlier post not lean. I had a brain fart, with the smaller intake pipe you would be cutting air so you would running rich which gives less performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Less air would be a richer fuel to air ratio. This would only be a factor at 7/8 throttle to wide open throttle. If I am wrong please correct me.
 

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Less air would be a richer fuel to air ratio. This would only be a factor at 7/8 throttle to wide open throttle. If I am wrong please correct me.
Yes you are right about being rich with less air, I corrected myself in my last post.

And any restriction over stock would cut air at any rpm but obviously at higher more.

I was playing around with a snorkel one day at idle and simply covered up the edge of it with one finger and the air/fuel changed.
 
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