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So I just got done with jetting my carbs, and took the car for a ride and it runs like crap. So here is what I have. 08 with dyna cdi and coils, dalton and overdrive plate, and muzzy pros. Jetting is as follows: 2 1/2 turns out on screws, d/j 146 150 jets, dj teryx needles with clip on 2nd notch and 2 washers, slide drilled with 1 addt'l 1/16 hole, hunterworks springs. I have an ehs racing airbox lid with the outerwear, and a stock one. I ran it with both and did not seem to make a difference. It would only top out at about 43 mph and i could hear it popping on top end. It also will ocasionally pop at idle.
I have run it stock with the cdi and coils, but this was the first run with the clutch and pipes/jetting. I can't tell if its lean or rich. Spark plug color is good. This car always ran cold blooded stock and needed choke till it warmed up. It always has popped some at idle. I found the rear carb screw fully closed when I took it apart, don't know if this was normal or not. It starts much better now, but if I hold the rpm at about 4000 in n it will be revving and pop through carbs from time to time. So the question is, WHAT DO I DO??? Thanks!
 

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So I just got done with jetting my carbs, and took the car for a ride and it runs like crap. So here is what I have. 08 with dyna cdi and coils, dalton and overdrive plate, and muzzy pros. Jetting is as follows: 2 1/2 turns out on screws, d/j 146 150 jets, dj teryx needles with clip on 2nd notch and 2 washers, slide drilled with 1 addt'l 1/16 hole, hunterworks springs. I have an ehs racing airbox lid with the outerwear, and a stock one. I ran it with both and did not seem to make a difference. It would only top out at about 43 mph and i could hear it popping on top end. It also will ocasionally pop at idle.
I have run it stock with the cdi and coils, but this was the first run with the clutch and pipes/jetting. I can't tell if its lean or rich. Spark plug color is good. This car always ran cold blooded stock and needed choke till it warmed up. It always has popped some at idle. I found the rear carb screw fully closed when I took it apart, don't know if this was normal or not. It starts much better now, but if I hold the rpm at about 4000 in n it will be revving and pop through carbs from time to time. So the question is, WHAT DO I DO??? Thanks!
Hey Ultimate1, It sound like it's running lean to me. The popping at wide open throttle is indicative of leanness. Does it pop when the engine is breaking? I had a simular problem with my 08 though not all the mods. It turned out to be the fuel pump was starting to get weak. The higher fuel demand might accentuate the problem. It's pretty easy to check it out. Just remove the fuel line to the carb, plug it, and use the gravity feed method(a bottle with a piece of vac hose) to keep the bowls full. Don't know if thats the problem but if it runs good for a short time and then messes up might be a week pump. Jeffsj
 

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Ok, I will take them back apart and check them then. If I run it with the plenum off how much bouncing are the slides supossed to do? I think mine are bouncing. It is weird if the diaphragms didn't seal though, as they seated in the groove very well. I am a pwc tech and have done literally thousands of pumper carbs, and some cv carbs on the jet skis so I am at least somewhat versed on working with carbs. Couple more questions, do you think my jets are close? I am at sea level. And if the fuel pump maybe has a problem, can I test with a rhino style high output mikuni pump (70ltr pr hr). This is the same one we use on some jet skis, and I have a brand new one here. I just don't know what the rating on the stock pump is though.
 

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I was having a problem with my diaphragm not sealing this week while rejetting. It seems it had dried and shrunk a bit. Some magic lube silicone gel revitalize it. My rear slide would not open at all. Only ran on 1 cylinder. Its funny you should ask about the rhino pump. I messed around with my rex lean popping for months. It gradually got worse and wouldn't run. Took it to the dealer and we chased it down in about 15 min. All they had in stock was a rhino pump and looked similar enough i thought I'd try it. You have to shave the mounting bracket a touch but I've been running it for over a year with no issues. It seems it was about half the price too.
 

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jeffsj do you have a picture or link to the gel you used. I had same problem with diaphram shrinking and bought a new one. Sure would be cheaper the lube.
Do you have a part number on the rhino pump?
Thanks
 

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No. I don't really have either. Out of town right now. The lube is an Oring lube used on water fittings and stuff. Rainbow also makes a similar product. Maybe google it? If you haven't found anything, remind me in a few days and I'll get a pic to you. All i really know is that its a rhino pump. There probably aren't that many different ones. edit: aladin 630 magic lube. Its actually a teflon base. It came right up on google. Good stuff!
 

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Ok, I will take them back apart and check them then. If I run it with the plenum off how much bouncing are the slides supossed to do? I think mine are bouncing. It is weird if the diaphragms didn't seal though, as they seated in the groove very well. I am a pwc tech and have done literally thousands of pumper carbs, and some cv carbs on the jet skis so I am at least somewhat versed on working with carbs. Couple more questions, do you think my jets are close? I am at sea level. And if the fuel pump maybe has a problem, can I test with a rhino style high output mikuni pump (70ltr pr hr). This is the same one we use on some jet skis, and I have a brand new one here. I just don't know what the rating on the stock pump is though.
They bounce bad with no air box

If you don't have the TPI valves or two 1 1/2" hole in the lid then those jets are gonna be too big too
 
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