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Please format it as how you ride, what you want to accomplish with your setup and your current mod level please, then your setup.

I ride mostly trails and do a lot of rough, slow and steep rock crawling. I also have fairly steep and wooded property that needs a lot of working. My wife rides with me a lot and drives the machine as well. We routinely have a good bit of weight in the bed to tote from one side of the property to the other.

Here is the short and also detailed description of what I want to accomplish.

1. Low RPM engagement
2. Smooth and soft as possible engagement
3. Fast to fully clutch out - I don't drag race anyone we ride rough areas

Ok now the long.

What I want to accomplish is as low an RPM I can have it engaged and stay engaged when I am crawling up and down very steep hills and rocks. Right now I can cruise down steep hills in 4x4 at 4 to 5 mph with the clutch staying fully engaged. I like it WAY better than KEBC. I also want the machine to be smooth engaging and as with any aftermarket clutch and even the stock, it takes some finesse to make it completely smooth. I do not like to jerk my wife around, she has MS and has a hard time holding on. With my setup I could make it completely smooth by holding down the brake, then putting it in L and slowly increase RPM slightly until the clutch engages then take my foot off the brake and move 100% smoothly. I never NEED to do this except for on the most steep places with my wife onboard. I want my clutch to be fully clutched in minimal time, where I ride there is not really any need to have the engine RPM way up there, I don't dragrace anyone, we race on the rough. I have tried to describe to the best I can.

My machine is an 08 with Muzzy's, HW Kit, Coils, FST STD Bore Kit stg 2 cams, UNI Filter on stock basket, Dynatek P CDI.

I am running Aluminum Rivets and all 3 grub screws. Silver secondary, Amber Primary.

I really love this setup, it does everything I need very well. I have the Dalton Clutch Cover as well and LOVE the performance increase in L range.:) I think a lot of guys go for to high RPM engagement and to slow shiftout and are missing a lot this package has to offer.

I would love to hear what all you guys running the Dalton Kit are thinking about it.
 

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I have almost the same components as Megallan, just set up way different.
I use my 840 teryx for high speed trail riding and some GNCC racing later this year along with some 500' drags at our local club. I have a stock teryx for the wife and kids, so the 840 is for all out performance. My mods include:

FST 840, Stage III cams, Muzzys, VDI, Uni Filter, Dalton Clutch kit and overdrive plate.

I have NO rivets or set screws in the wieghts. Amber Primary and Silver Secondary. I found this set up to give me the most acceeration and top speed. Im getting 72 before the limter kicks in, but I have bounced the speedo to 75. Very happy with the dalton kit, it really put the finishing touch on the 840!!
 

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Magellan, I'm feelin ya on this one and would also like to know or understand what effects the engagement rpm and why it's higher with the kit?

xchamp, do you know what the intial engagement rpm is on yours without any weight?
 

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I am curious how much difference the orange blue spring makes in engagement? I have the same set up as magellan except the muzzy. I haven't put in my Dalton clutch kit but have everything except the secondary clutch tool from Hunterworks. I was planning on putting in the orange blue because I want to be strong out of the hole. I had a KFX 700 that I ran with the almond spring and I liked the way it engaged at low rpm, but from what I had read the orange blue is the fastest in a drag race? I go to the dunes and have some 26x12x12 9 paddle extremes ordered and I think the orange blue will be my best set up? Thoughts?
 

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Ive been wanting to try the Orange Blue spring its just so much work if i dont like it and mine runs so good now i hate to mess with it. No screws or rivets for me they slowed mine down way too much in a straight line race.
 

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orange blue spring

Is anyone running the orange blue spring with their Dalton Clutch Kit? How do you like it and how do you have it set up?
 

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We will find out soon enough on the OB spring, put it in mine tonight, havent had a chance to ride it yet but it does engage at a higher rpm. i will keep you posted.
 

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We will find out soon enough on the OB spring, put it in mine tonight, havent had a chance to ride it yet but it does engage at a higher rpm. i will keep you posted.
Had a chance to try the orange and blue spring yet? Curious as I am about to finally install my Dalton clutch kit.
 

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Yup stall is higher but still engages smooth, it raised the shift rpms as well, i love it and i'm pretty sure its faster with the OB.
 

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i run he orange/blue, no rivets and 6 set screws total. clutch engages at 2600rpm, starts to shift at 7200 and shifts out at 7500. i also have vforcejohns stageIII clutch mods so that changes things a bit.

xchamp, did you radar gun your speed or go off the speedo, and what rpm's were you at. i've radared mine at 72mph several times. it gets to 72 incredably fast but stops there. its like i hit the rev limiter. i've raised the limiter to 10k even though its not getting anywhere close to that, tryed many different timing curves of my own and of others but i can't break that speed. i think these 840's with stock heads just can't flow anymore. i've got my LM1 setup to record and log afr, rpm and tp sensor that i installed on my 39fcr's. at 8600rpm my af drops to about 11 and no matter what jetting on the main fuel or main air i can't get past about 8600rpm at 72mph. not that i need to go any faster or anything:D
 

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Chase,

72 is off the factory speedo, so its probably less on radar/gps. Dont know rpms, havent installed my tach yet. Mickey says the standard bore kits should run a few more rpms and may have a little higher speeds than the 840's. But of course the 840's have more torque and should accelerate better especially with a load. Try removing your set screws from the wieghts, I seemed to gain about 2 mph topend when I did that and acceleration seemed a little stronger too. My clutch is not machined either, thinking about trying that, I will keep u posted if i do.
 

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I thought 840s like Chases with the bigger carbs run faster than the Standard bore kits. The 840s with stock carbs are slower but torque monsters in the lower half.
 

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ok, 72 on the speedo make sense. i've tryed many weight and spring combos and the 6 set screws and no rivets gives me the best acceleration no doubt, these 840s don't like to rev to the moon. i know the standard bore kits make their peek hp at almost 1000rpm higher than the 840s do so they should be much faster on top speeds.
 

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hey chase dont forget, mine hit a wall too at 72mph with my bighorns and wouldnt hit the rev limiter, only when i put my stock tires on is when i was able to actually hit the 9200 limiter, I have vforce jons clutch too.
 

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hey chase dont forget, mine hit a wall too at 72mph with my bighorns and wouldnt hit the rev limiter, only when i put my stock tires on is when i was able to actually hit the 9200 limiter, I have vforce jons clutch too.
is that 72 on the speedo with yours? my motor will not rev to 9200, too large of tire is not my issue. i have tons of power and i get to 70+ faster than you can believe, i will get some video up soon. i just don't think the big bores can move anymore air through the stock heads.
 

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Any one ever run a stock bore kit against an 840?

Is there video out there of it?
You guys have me confused:confused:. I thought the 840 would out perform the standard bore hands down. Someone straighten me out. Doesn't the 840 have more CCs and therefore should be faster?
 

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You guys have me confused:confused:. I thought the 840 would out perform the standard bore hands down. Someone straighten me out. Doesn't the 840 have more CCs and therefore should be faster?
Logically yes the 840 should be faster but from what I understand that the 840 to work well you need to port the heads and use bigger carbs.
 

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found out why i can't get past 8500 rpm i posted the info in detail on another forum already. the problem was fuel standoff from the front carb getting sucked into the rear cylinder because of the 2into1 intake plenum design and the stage III cams overlap. it was creating a super lean condition in the front cylinder and a super rich in the rear, the front was so lean it caused misfiring, very lucky i didn't blow it up. i am fixing this problem today by building completely separate intakes for each carb. without the plenum i ran it up to 9100rpm with no misfires at all, and power is much much better now. this is also most likely happening to the guys running the stock carbs which is why everyone seems to hit a wall at 70-72mph on the speedos, with the clutch caps that equates to about the same rpms where mine hits a wall. i will keep you guys informed this week, but i know is is what the problem is now!
 
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